November is the time of year when all gardeners get a little melancholy. Instead of looking forward to new blooms and green growth, it is time to get the gardens ready for its’ winter nap. The key is to remember that the plants in our garden are only “sleeping”, that is they are still alive and well. During the winter, water and nutrients are still running throughout the entire plant, including deciduous plants. In evergreens, such as rhododendrons and azaleas, this process continues quicker than in deciduous plants, as the leaves transpire, or give off water vapor, through the leaf's pores (stomata). The problem arises when the roots cannot supply enough moisture to compensate what is lost through the leaf’s pores. In rhododendrons, the leaves will roll up to reduce the surface area, slowing down the evaporation through the leaves. We can also help prevent moisture loss in evergreens by applying and anti-desiccant, such as “Wilt-Pruf”. One of the most common questions in spring is why are my rhododendron leaves brown at the edges? The reason is winter burn, caused by excessive transpiration in the winter. A simple application of “Wilt-Pruf” before the arrival of winter (days with a temperature higher than 50 degree) will help eliminate winter burn.
Garden cleanliness is extremely important at this time of year. Most diseases can over winter in the soil of your garden, emerging in spring with the new growth of your plants. A good example is black spot and powdery mildew. These diseases will over winter on leaves that have fallen to the ground. When the spring rains come, the raindrops will “bounce” the spores up onto the leaves, starting the cycle for yet another year. The best way to stop a fungus or disease is to prevent it. Make sure that all of your garden debris is picked up. If you have a compost pile, do not put these leaves into the compost – the disease will over winter in your compost and resurface next year. Most municipalities have a leaf collection service or a disposal site for fall refuse, and this is where diseased material should go.
Once the garden has gone dormant (usually the early part of December), now is the time I like to apply an organic fertilizer to every plant on my property. I apply bone meal for my garden beds. This organic fertilizer will not burn, nor will it create excessive new growth if we have a warm spell. What it will do is work its’ way into the soil, and be available first thing in spring to help green up your garden. The same is true for your lawn. Apply a 10-6-4 general-purpose fertilizer to your lawn once the ground freezes. If your lawn needs lime to help raise the pH, now is the time to do that as well. You may feel silly bundled up in your winter gear applying lawn fertilizer, but your lawn will have the nutrients it needs first thing in spring, greening up sooner than any one of your neighbor’s lawns, making you the King (or Queen) of your neighborhood!
Clean and oil your garden tools for winter storage. Place some sand and some oil in a large bucket, then slide your garden tools in and out of the sand. This will do an excellent job of cleaning them, as well as applying a light coat of oil to prevent rusting. This is also a good month to restock any tools that have seen better days, while the prices are lower.
Lastly, make sure that your power equipment is clean of any plant debris, and gas drained from the tank. Run the equipment after emptying the gas tank to make sure the gasoline is completely out of the carburetor and fuel lines. Clogged fuel lines or gummed up carburetors are the biggest problem when trying to start your engine in spring. Running the equipment until it runs out of gas will eliminate this problem next spring.
These easy tips will help you enjoy the flower show next spring without all of the work.
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