Amaryllis (Hippeastrum species) are popular for their 6 to 10 inch trumpet shaped flowers that are born on 1 to 2 foot stalks (scapes). Although red and scarlet are the most popular colors, the flowers may be pink, white, salmon, apricot, rose, bicolor or picotee (petals with a different edge color) and in both single and double forms. They are prized for the color they add to the indoor landscapes during winter, and are often given and received as gifts.
When growing amaryllis from bulbs, careful selection of the bulbs is important because the plant’s performance is influenced by both the size and condition of the bulb. It is best to select the largest bulbs available as they will produce more stalks and blooms the first year. The bulbs should be firm and dry with no signs of mold, decay or injury. Next, select a container that is deep enough to allow adequate room for good root development and has provisions for drainage. The diameter of the pot should be about one inch larger than that of the bulb. Although this may seem small, amaryllis bulbs prefer a smaller container. Select a potting medium that has a high organic matter, but drains well. The bulb should be positioned so that at least one-third, preferably one-half, of the bulb is above the surface of the potting medium. Firm the potting medium around the bulb, water it thoroughly and place the container in a warm, sunny spot. Do not fertilize the bulb until it begins to grow. After growth appears, it is essential to fertilize the plants regularly with a fertilizer that has high phosphorus content. Move the plant out of direct sunlight when the flower buds have begun to show color.
The secret to successfully growing amaryllis is to keep the plants actively growing after they have finished blooming. After the flowers have faded, cut them off to prevent seed formation. Do not remove the flower stalk until it has turned yellow; since it will help manufacture food that will be stored in the bulb. If the bulb does not produce a flowering stalk the next blooming period, it has not stored enough nutrients during the post-blooming period. It is important that amaryllis receive plenty of bright sunlight after they have finished blooming so place it in the brightest possible location indoors. Water the plant from the top of the container thoroughly whenever the top 2 inches of the soil is dry to the touch. Empty any excess water that drains from the pot as wet soil will promote root and bulb rot.
When all danger of frost is past, acclimate the plant to the outdoors by first placing it in indirect light. Gradually move it to a bright spot in your garden where it will receive full sun for at least 6 hours daily. Sink the pot into the soil and fertilize as you would any other perennial. Amaryllis plants should be brought indoors before the first frost in the fall. Amaryllis do not require a resting period, however, blooming time can be controlled by allowing the bulb to go through a resting period. After bringing the potted plants indoors, store them in a dark place like a basement or cool closet (above freezing) and do not water. Do not remove the foliage until it has become dry and shriveled. The bulbs can be forced into bloom again after resting for 8 to 12 weeks. Inspect the bulbs periodically and bring them into light if new growth appears. If no new growth appears, they can be forced to bloom by bringing them into bright light and watering the soil thoroughly. Usually one or more flower stalks appear first, but occasionally they are preceded by leaves. Flowers usually develop in about 4-6 weeks from dormant bulbs, so they can be timed to flower for the holidays.
Amaryllis require some care and attention throughout the year, but those beautiful trumpet
shaped flowers are a great reward in the long months of winter.
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Happy Election Day!!!!!!1
Today we celebrate one of the greatest actions, we, as a free society and democracy, can do -- the ability to vote for the candidate of YOUR choice. Our forefathers of this great country wanted us to live in freedom, and to make sure that we could do so, gave us the right to vote for our representatives in our towns, counties, districts, state and country. This right should not be taken for granted. It always irritates me to no end to hear someone complain about politics in general, then add "Well, I didn't vote". Let your voice be heard and go to your local polling place and VOTE! There is no excuse not to go. Yes the lines may be long and time consuming, but if you weigh out the 1/2 hour to 1 hour waiting on line compared to the next 34,944 hours until our next Presidential election, it is only but a fraction of time.
When you are done voting and are walking back to your car, give yourself a well deserved pat on the back and a hearty "HUZZAH", because our forefathers are proud of you!
When you are done voting and are walking back to your car, give yourself a well deserved pat on the back and a hearty "HUZZAH", because our forefathers are proud of you!
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Fall Colors
The end of the summer doesn't have to mean the end of your colorful garden. There are plenty of options for your garden with fall-blooming flowers to create a landscape just as colorful and bright as the falling leaves around you.
Naturally the mum is the first thing that comes to mind when one thinks "fall flowers." The mum, or chrysanthemum, is perhaps the quintessential plant of the autumn season and is available in an array of colors and varieties that will immediately brighten up any garden. You can choose from a variety of flowers ranging across the spectrum from mums with long, narrow petals, to wider and more compact flowers, in many shades of yellow, pink, red, orange, purple, bronze and white.
There are plenty of options in plants besides the mum to bring color to your garden. The aster is considered the other classic autumn flower. Asters work well as a border in a garden because of the magnitude of color they offer when purchased in large quantities and planted in dramatic arcs. They come in such colors as white, lavender, blue, bright pink, purple with a yellow eye, and medium blue. Like the mum, the aster is a perennial that will come back and flower in the fall if cared for correctly. Together, mums and asters can form the backbone of an enduring, brilliant autumn garden to look forward to every year.
The tough little pansy is another great choice for a fall garden and will be left blooming after all the other flowers in your garden have died off. It will also be amongst the first to bloom again come spring. A lot of pansy varieties are biennial, and they will flower all fall into some of the winter and then bloom early the next spring. Pansies have been bred in a rainbow of colors, ranging from gold and orange though to purple, violet, and a blue so deep as to be almost black. They are quite a hardy plant, growing well in sunny or partially sunny positions.
Though these are the three most common flowers for the fall, there are still a variety of other kinds of flowers and plants available to light up the garden. For flowers in a variety of colors to add to your garden consider softly-hued Japanese Anemones (think whites, pinks, and reds), petite yellow-petaled Coreopsis (also available in deep burgundy and white), and Ceratostigma, a variety of Plumbago with lovely clusters of small flowers and shiny dark green leaves that turn red later on in the fall. For less traditional-looking blooms, there is Cimicifuga, with its tall slender dark stems and tiny creamy white flowers, Perovskia, more commonly known as Russian Sage, an herb but with stand-out deeply colored purplish to bluish flowers, and Sedum which offers unique, small star-shaped flower clusters in neutral white, yellow, pink, and burgundy tones. Sedum also works well as a ground cover.
Possibilities for an autumn garden do not merely include flowers. Think about incorporating tall, wispy ornamental grasses whose neutral colors serve as a nice contrast to the vivid colors of the flowers. Decorative peppers also bring a nice variety to a garden, and come in bright shades of yellow, red, and orange. Other vegetables that give your fall garden a unique look are ornamental cabbages and kales.
Preparing a garden of fall perennials is worth the work and investment as it will last you year after year. As the weather cools off it's an ideal chance to get outside and work in your garden, and it's also an important time to prepare your plants for the winter and begin thinking ahead about your spring gardening.
Naturally the mum is the first thing that comes to mind when one thinks "fall flowers." The mum, or chrysanthemum, is perhaps the quintessential plant of the autumn season and is available in an array of colors and varieties that will immediately brighten up any garden. You can choose from a variety of flowers ranging across the spectrum from mums with long, narrow petals, to wider and more compact flowers, in many shades of yellow, pink, red, orange, purple, bronze and white.
There are plenty of options in plants besides the mum to bring color to your garden. The aster is considered the other classic autumn flower. Asters work well as a border in a garden because of the magnitude of color they offer when purchased in large quantities and planted in dramatic arcs. They come in such colors as white, lavender, blue, bright pink, purple with a yellow eye, and medium blue. Like the mum, the aster is a perennial that will come back and flower in the fall if cared for correctly. Together, mums and asters can form the backbone of an enduring, brilliant autumn garden to look forward to every year.
The tough little pansy is another great choice for a fall garden and will be left blooming after all the other flowers in your garden have died off. It will also be amongst the first to bloom again come spring. A lot of pansy varieties are biennial, and they will flower all fall into some of the winter and then bloom early the next spring. Pansies have been bred in a rainbow of colors, ranging from gold and orange though to purple, violet, and a blue so deep as to be almost black. They are quite a hardy plant, growing well in sunny or partially sunny positions.
Though these are the three most common flowers for the fall, there are still a variety of other kinds of flowers and plants available to light up the garden. For flowers in a variety of colors to add to your garden consider softly-hued Japanese Anemones (think whites, pinks, and reds), petite yellow-petaled Coreopsis (also available in deep burgundy and white), and Ceratostigma, a variety of Plumbago with lovely clusters of small flowers and shiny dark green leaves that turn red later on in the fall. For less traditional-looking blooms, there is Cimicifuga, with its tall slender dark stems and tiny creamy white flowers, Perovskia, more commonly known as Russian Sage, an herb but with stand-out deeply colored purplish to bluish flowers, and Sedum which offers unique, small star-shaped flower clusters in neutral white, yellow, pink, and burgundy tones. Sedum also works well as a ground cover.
Possibilities for an autumn garden do not merely include flowers. Think about incorporating tall, wispy ornamental grasses whose neutral colors serve as a nice contrast to the vivid colors of the flowers. Decorative peppers also bring a nice variety to a garden, and come in bright shades of yellow, red, and orange. Other vegetables that give your fall garden a unique look are ornamental cabbages and kales.
Preparing a garden of fall perennials is worth the work and investment as it will last you year after year. As the weather cools off it's an ideal chance to get outside and work in your garden, and it's also an important time to prepare your plants for the winter and begin thinking ahead about your spring gardening.
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Why Leaves Change Color
Why Leaves Change Color
A green leaf is green because of the presence of a group of pigments known as Chlorophylls. When they are abundant in the leaf's cells, as they are during the growing season, the chlorophylls' green color dominates and masks out the colors of any other pigments that may be present in the leaf. Thus the leaves of summer are characteristically green.
The chlorophylls have a vital function: they capture some of the sun's energy and utilize it in the manufacture of the plant's food- simple sugars which are produced from water and carbon dioxide. These sugars are the basis of the plant's nourishment- the sole source of the carbohydrates needed for growth and development.
In their food-manufacturing process, the chlorophylls themselves break down and thus are being continually "used up." During the growing season, however, the plant replenishes the chlorophyll so that the supply remains high and the leaves stay green.
But as autumn approaches, certain influences both inside and outside the plant cause the chlorophylls to be replaced at a slower rate than they are being used up. During this period, with the total supply of chlorophylls gradually dwindling, the "masking" effect slowly fades away. Then other pigments that have been present (along with the chlorophylls) in the cells all during the leaf's life begin to show through. These are the carotenoids; they give us colorations of yellow, brown, orange, and the many hues in between.
The reds, the purples, and their blended combinations that decorate autumn foliage come from another group of pigments in the cells called anthocyanins. These pigments are not present in the leaf throughout the growing season as are the carotenoids. They develop in late summer in the sap of the cells of the leaf, and this development is the result of complex interactions of many influences- both inside and outside the plant. Their formation depends on the breakdown of sugars in the presence of bright light as the level of a certain chemical (phosphate) in the leaf is reduced.
During the summer growing season, phosphate is at a high level. It has a vital role in the breakdown of the sugars manufactured by chlorophyll.
But in the fall, phosphate, along with the other chemicals and nutrients, moves out of the leaf into the stem of the plant. When this happens, the sugar-breakdown process changes, leading to the production of anthocyanin pigments. The brighter the light during this period, the greater the production of anthocyanins and the more brilliant the resulting color display we see. When the days of autumn are bright and cool, and the nights chilly but not freezing, the brightest colorations usually develop.
Anothocyanins temporarily color the edges of some of the very young leaves as they unfold from the buds in early spring. They also give the familiar color to such common fruits as cranberries, red apples, purple grapes, blueberries, cherries, strawberries, and plums.
In our autumn forests they show up vividly in the maples, oaks, sourwood, sweetgum, dogwood, tupelo, black gum, and persimmon. These same pigments often combine with the carotenoids' colors to give us the deeper orange, fiery reds, and bronzes typical of many hardwood species.
The carotenoids occur, along with the chlorophyll pigments, in tiny structures - called plastids - within the cells of leaves. Sometimes they are in such abundance in the leaf that they give a plant a yellow-green color, even during the summer; but usually we become aware of their presence for the first time in autumn, when the leaves begin to lose their chlorophyll.
Carotenoids are common in many living things, giving characteristic color to carrots, corn, canaries and daffodils, as well as egg yolks, rutabagas, buttercups and bananas. Their brilliant yellow and oranges tint the leaves of such hardwood species as hickories, ash, maple, yellow poplar, aspen, birch, black cherry, sycamore, cottonwood, sassafras, and alder.
A green leaf is green because of the presence of a group of pigments known as Chlorophylls. When they are abundant in the leaf's cells, as they are during the growing season, the chlorophylls' green color dominates and masks out the colors of any other pigments that may be present in the leaf. Thus the leaves of summer are characteristically green.
The chlorophylls have a vital function: they capture some of the sun's energy and utilize it in the manufacture of the plant's food- simple sugars which are produced from water and carbon dioxide. These sugars are the basis of the plant's nourishment- the sole source of the carbohydrates needed for growth and development.
In their food-manufacturing process, the chlorophylls themselves break down and thus are being continually "used up." During the growing season, however, the plant replenishes the chlorophyll so that the supply remains high and the leaves stay green.
But as autumn approaches, certain influences both inside and outside the plant cause the chlorophylls to be replaced at a slower rate than they are being used up. During this period, with the total supply of chlorophylls gradually dwindling, the "masking" effect slowly fades away. Then other pigments that have been present (along with the chlorophylls) in the cells all during the leaf's life begin to show through. These are the carotenoids; they give us colorations of yellow, brown, orange, and the many hues in between.
The reds, the purples, and their blended combinations that decorate autumn foliage come from another group of pigments in the cells called anthocyanins. These pigments are not present in the leaf throughout the growing season as are the carotenoids. They develop in late summer in the sap of the cells of the leaf, and this development is the result of complex interactions of many influences- both inside and outside the plant. Their formation depends on the breakdown of sugars in the presence of bright light as the level of a certain chemical (phosphate) in the leaf is reduced.
During the summer growing season, phosphate is at a high level. It has a vital role in the breakdown of the sugars manufactured by chlorophyll.
But in the fall, phosphate, along with the other chemicals and nutrients, moves out of the leaf into the stem of the plant. When this happens, the sugar-breakdown process changes, leading to the production of anthocyanin pigments. The brighter the light during this period, the greater the production of anthocyanins and the more brilliant the resulting color display we see. When the days of autumn are bright and cool, and the nights chilly but not freezing, the brightest colorations usually develop.
Anothocyanins temporarily color the edges of some of the very young leaves as they unfold from the buds in early spring. They also give the familiar color to such common fruits as cranberries, red apples, purple grapes, blueberries, cherries, strawberries, and plums.
In our autumn forests they show up vividly in the maples, oaks, sourwood, sweetgum, dogwood, tupelo, black gum, and persimmon. These same pigments often combine with the carotenoids' colors to give us the deeper orange, fiery reds, and bronzes typical of many hardwood species.
The carotenoids occur, along with the chlorophyll pigments, in tiny structures - called plastids - within the cells of leaves. Sometimes they are in such abundance in the leaf that they give a plant a yellow-green color, even during the summer; but usually we become aware of their presence for the first time in autumn, when the leaves begin to lose their chlorophyll.
Carotenoids are common in many living things, giving characteristic color to carrots, corn, canaries and daffodils, as well as egg yolks, rutabagas, buttercups and bananas. Their brilliant yellow and oranges tint the leaves of such hardwood species as hickories, ash, maple, yellow poplar, aspen, birch, black cherry, sycamore, cottonwood, sassafras, and alder.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Shop Wisely
As many of you know, I love to save a few pennies here and there. One of the best ways to save money is to shop nursery and garden centers “End of Season Sales”. Most nurseries and garden centers do not want to hold plant material over the winter, so they begin to discount the price towards the end of September in hopes of moving the plants. Prices can be reduced anywhere from 20 to 50% off of retail. Now even though this sounds like a tremendous bargain, you need to keep a few things in mind. First and foremost, don’t go nuts buying plants without having the idea where they are going to be planted on your property. Remember that Garden Journal we talked about in spring? That is the perfect guide to bring with you when purchasing plants, and hopefully you have been diligent with keeping it up to date.
When you get to the garden center and start to look at the plants, look carefully and inspect the bark and leaves. Are the leaves yellow, wilted, curled or brown? These all can point to several different problems. Yellow, wilted or brown leaves could be caused from inadequate watering (which is a definite possibility, especially with balled and burlapped plants), diseases (wilts or anthracnose such as on dogwoods) or insects (look for blackish-brown dots on the undersides of leaves). When looking at the bark, make sure that it is securely wrapped around the plant and there are no missing areas of bark. Remember the active growing area of the stem is right below the bark of the tree, so if the bark is missing, the active area will dry up and not transport the nutrients the top of the plant needs. Also look for holes in the bark from burrowing insects such as borers. A few yellow leaves should not stop you from getting a good deal, just understand what the cause of the yellowing is and take appropriate action when you get the plant home.
One place where people do not check the plant, even in growing season, is the root zone. Check to see if the root ball is solid and firm if the plant is balled and burlapped. If it is loose, the broken soil may include a broken major root which will hinder the plant from adapting and getting set for the upcoming winter. One other thing to check is how many layers of burlap the ball has wrapped around it. I have purchased plants before at end of year sales that looked fairly good, but when I got it home and went to plant it I pulled the new top piece of burlap off to reveal an older, semi-rotted piece underneath. This tells you that the plant was held over last winter and they put a new piece of burlap over the old to dress it up. If the plant is in a container, don’t be scared to give it turn it upside down and slide the pot off to get a good look at the root system. If the plant has been around for a while, you will notice a lot of roots and little soil (aka the plant is root bound). When planting, just tease the roots to allow them to spread out into the soil and to stop the circular habit.
If the plants pass these tests, remember to add compost to the planting hole, a good soaking right after they are planted, and watering once a week if we hit a dry period. The good news is that Fall is for Planting, and the plant will have the needed time to adapt to the new location through fall, winter and the early part of spring before the hot weather returns next year and stresses the plant. You will see that many plants will do better when planted in fall than spring and you will save a few dollars as well.
When you get to the garden center and start to look at the plants, look carefully and inspect the bark and leaves. Are the leaves yellow, wilted, curled or brown? These all can point to several different problems. Yellow, wilted or brown leaves could be caused from inadequate watering (which is a definite possibility, especially with balled and burlapped plants), diseases (wilts or anthracnose such as on dogwoods) or insects (look for blackish-brown dots on the undersides of leaves). When looking at the bark, make sure that it is securely wrapped around the plant and there are no missing areas of bark. Remember the active growing area of the stem is right below the bark of the tree, so if the bark is missing, the active area will dry up and not transport the nutrients the top of the plant needs. Also look for holes in the bark from burrowing insects such as borers. A few yellow leaves should not stop you from getting a good deal, just understand what the cause of the yellowing is and take appropriate action when you get the plant home.
One place where people do not check the plant, even in growing season, is the root zone. Check to see if the root ball is solid and firm if the plant is balled and burlapped. If it is loose, the broken soil may include a broken major root which will hinder the plant from adapting and getting set for the upcoming winter. One other thing to check is how many layers of burlap the ball has wrapped around it. I have purchased plants before at end of year sales that looked fairly good, but when I got it home and went to plant it I pulled the new top piece of burlap off to reveal an older, semi-rotted piece underneath. This tells you that the plant was held over last winter and they put a new piece of burlap over the old to dress it up. If the plant is in a container, don’t be scared to give it turn it upside down and slide the pot off to get a good look at the root system. If the plant has been around for a while, you will notice a lot of roots and little soil (aka the plant is root bound). When planting, just tease the roots to allow them to spread out into the soil and to stop the circular habit.
If the plants pass these tests, remember to add compost to the planting hole, a good soaking right after they are planted, and watering once a week if we hit a dry period. The good news is that Fall is for Planting, and the plant will have the needed time to adapt to the new location through fall, winter and the early part of spring before the hot weather returns next year and stresses the plant. You will see that many plants will do better when planted in fall than spring and you will save a few dollars as well.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Be a Weed Warrior without Chemicals
CHEMICAL-FREE WEED WARFARE
You can have a good looking, virtually weed free lawn without the use of chemicals. You can have a good looking, virtually weed free lawn without the use of chemicals. Now that I have hypnotized you into believing this, you must understand the laws of the lawn. 1). What is a weed? A weed is, terminology wise, a plant that is out of place or in the wrong place. On a putting green at a golf course, Kentucky Bluegrass would be a weed, whereas on your home lawn, bentgrass is the weed. Society’s perception of a weed has changed over the years. Clover was soft to walk on, mows well, smothers other weeds as well as fixing nitrogen from the air. It was sold by the tons and mixed into lawns. It wasn’t until a company came along and said that clover didn’t fit into a “modern” lawn did it fall from grace. By the way, the company also sold a chemical that would kill the clover. What about dandelions? Are they weeds? Not to the kid blowing puffballs, or the old man making dandelion wine or the farmers in Vineland, New Jersey. They grow dandelions in neat little rows for their tasty greens that are sold up and down the east coast. On those farms, turfgrass is the weed. The most important question you can ask yourself is, “Can I stand a few weeds in my lawn?” As my father always told me, weeds stay green all summer long and your lawn looks green from the road, so they can’t be all that bad. If you must remove the weeds, do so with cultural methods, such as the dandelion fork. To keep future weeds out, the best defense is a healthy, thick lawn. If the lawn is thick and vigorous, there won’t be any room for the weeds to elbow their way in. Keeping your lawn 1/2” higher in the summer will not only keep the roots long, but will also shade out the newly emerging weeds. If you have a weedy lawn, good grass care will eventually force the weeds out, but this will take time. You can quicken this time by doing the elbow grease of pulling, chopping and cutting the weeds. This will not be as easy as spraying the lawn with herbicides, but there are plenty of reasons to avoid using chemicals. Chemicals are poisons, plain and simple. And as I have stated earlier, chemicals can slow down the biological processes that strengthen the grass plants, decompose thatch, and discourages diseases. There are several bad management practices that can lead to weeds; 1). You are growing the wrong type of grass for the area. 2). Your soil is compacted 3). Heavy use 4). Improper fertilization 5). Drought or improper watering habits 6). Mowing too closely 7). You shouldn’t grow grass in that area.
HOW TO BEAT CRABGRASS
How would you feel if I told you that you could reduce the amount of crabgrass to nothing without work, chemicals or weeding? The University of Rhode Island has showed that higher mowing alone reduced crabgrass on their test plots to almost nothing over a five year period. They also found out that the non-chemical control worked better than the chemical control, even though it took time. The second study was done over 50 years ago by the Ohio Extension Service. It showed that a late season fertilizer (November) got the grass growing earlier which in turn crowded out the crabgrass. The third method is more drastic and should only be used on severely populated crabgrass areas. Cover the area with the black weed fabric that is available on the market today for ten days. The crabgrass will be dead when the fabric is removed, but the regular grass will be yellow and will recoup by two weeks. Although this is the drastic method, sometimes your lawn will only be crabgrass and this method will be the best way for you to overcome crabgrass.
WEED PREVENTION
Lastly, applying an organic product called corn gluten twice per year will help reduce the amount of weeds. Notice that I didn't say eliminate. This product does take time to become effective, so for complete control you are looking at 2 to 3 years. The good news is it won't harm you or your children or pets, so taking a little more time to work is okay with me. The best time to apply is late fall and early spring, then you will be apply to apply grass seed in early fall and have it germinate before the next application. Also this product is an organic fertlizer as well, so you will be getting the benefit of adding nutrients to the soil to help the grass become healthy and strong.
You can have a good looking, virtually weed free lawn without the use of chemicals. You can have a good looking, virtually weed free lawn without the use of chemicals. Now that I have hypnotized you into believing this, you must understand the laws of the lawn. 1). What is a weed? A weed is, terminology wise, a plant that is out of place or in the wrong place. On a putting green at a golf course, Kentucky Bluegrass would be a weed, whereas on your home lawn, bentgrass is the weed. Society’s perception of a weed has changed over the years. Clover was soft to walk on, mows well, smothers other weeds as well as fixing nitrogen from the air. It was sold by the tons and mixed into lawns. It wasn’t until a company came along and said that clover didn’t fit into a “modern” lawn did it fall from grace. By the way, the company also sold a chemical that would kill the clover. What about dandelions? Are they weeds? Not to the kid blowing puffballs, or the old man making dandelion wine or the farmers in Vineland, New Jersey. They grow dandelions in neat little rows for their tasty greens that are sold up and down the east coast. On those farms, turfgrass is the weed. The most important question you can ask yourself is, “Can I stand a few weeds in my lawn?” As my father always told me, weeds stay green all summer long and your lawn looks green from the road, so they can’t be all that bad. If you must remove the weeds, do so with cultural methods, such as the dandelion fork. To keep future weeds out, the best defense is a healthy, thick lawn. If the lawn is thick and vigorous, there won’t be any room for the weeds to elbow their way in. Keeping your lawn 1/2” higher in the summer will not only keep the roots long, but will also shade out the newly emerging weeds. If you have a weedy lawn, good grass care will eventually force the weeds out, but this will take time. You can quicken this time by doing the elbow grease of pulling, chopping and cutting the weeds. This will not be as easy as spraying the lawn with herbicides, but there are plenty of reasons to avoid using chemicals. Chemicals are poisons, plain and simple. And as I have stated earlier, chemicals can slow down the biological processes that strengthen the grass plants, decompose thatch, and discourages diseases. There are several bad management practices that can lead to weeds; 1). You are growing the wrong type of grass for the area. 2). Your soil is compacted 3). Heavy use 4). Improper fertilization 5). Drought or improper watering habits 6). Mowing too closely 7). You shouldn’t grow grass in that area.
HOW TO BEAT CRABGRASS
How would you feel if I told you that you could reduce the amount of crabgrass to nothing without work, chemicals or weeding? The University of Rhode Island has showed that higher mowing alone reduced crabgrass on their test plots to almost nothing over a five year period. They also found out that the non-chemical control worked better than the chemical control, even though it took time. The second study was done over 50 years ago by the Ohio Extension Service. It showed that a late season fertilizer (November) got the grass growing earlier which in turn crowded out the crabgrass. The third method is more drastic and should only be used on severely populated crabgrass areas. Cover the area with the black weed fabric that is available on the market today for ten days. The crabgrass will be dead when the fabric is removed, but the regular grass will be yellow and will recoup by two weeks. Although this is the drastic method, sometimes your lawn will only be crabgrass and this method will be the best way for you to overcome crabgrass.
WEED PREVENTION
Lastly, applying an organic product called corn gluten twice per year will help reduce the amount of weeds. Notice that I didn't say eliminate. This product does take time to become effective, so for complete control you are looking at 2 to 3 years. The good news is it won't harm you or your children or pets, so taking a little more time to work is okay with me. The best time to apply is late fall and early spring, then you will be apply to apply grass seed in early fall and have it germinate before the next application. Also this product is an organic fertlizer as well, so you will be getting the benefit of adding nutrients to the soil to help the grass become healthy and strong.
Monday, August 25, 2008
Grass Seed Basics
SHOPPING FOR SEED
When buying grass seed, you get what you pay for. Fortunately, every package of grass seed has a label, which is required to contain specific information. It must list the amount of five things that might be in that bag or box. First, there is the turfgrass, which is listed in percentage. There may be one or more species with several varieties of each. The next three are grouped in a general category of “other ingredients”, which may include weed seed, inert matter and crop seeds, also listed in percentages. Finally, noxious weeds, as determined by our state agriculture department, will be listed seperately, not by percentage but by numbers per pound.
Noxious Weeds - wild garlic, buckhorn, plantain and annual bluegrass. A top-quality seed will contain NO noxious weeds.
Crop Seeds - these can be more troublesome than noxious weed seed. It can contain seeds such as timothy, rough bluegrass, orchardgrass and bentgrass. Just 1% of these contaminants can produce up to 40 plants per square foot, and that can ruin the look of your lawn. A good seed mix should contain well below 1% of this.
Inert Matter - This includes chaff, hulls, stones and such. It will not harm the look of your lawn, but why pay for something that won’t grow? You want to have less than 3% in you seed.
Weed Seed - This includes common weed seeds that are not noxious. There should be none in your seed.
The Turfgrasses - They are listed by descending order by the percent present in the mixture (also called purity) and the germination percentage of each. Combining those two numbers gives you the real value. The real value is a good measure of the seeds’ quality. To determine the real value, multiply the percentage of contents by the germination percentage and divide by 100. Example; Let’s say we buy a box of “Merion” grass seed. It is listed as 90% pure and the germination percentage is 80%. 90 x 80 /100 gives you 72. 72 percent of what is in the box will germinate to “Merion” bluegrass, with the other 28% being other. To figure the real value of a mixture (different species) or a blend (different varieties of a same species), do the same procedure as above for each seed, add them together and divide and divide by the number of seed types.
Finally, when buying seed, look for a variety of names. Buy only named varieties and stay away from mixes that just list “common Kentucky Bluegrass,”, or “Tall Fescue”. These seed types will only lead to trouble. Last but not least, when you are shopping, remember your yards conditions (such as sunny, dry, moist, etc) and remember which seed types meet those conditions.
OVERSEEDING OR SODDING?
This is one question that you will have to answer yourself, but I do have an opinion. First, are you starting with an existing lawn or starting fresh? If it is a new or old lawn, have the soil checked for nutrient content and pH. This is one of the major problems with grass not performing the way it should. Simple soil testing kits can be purchased at your local garden center or home center. The pH should be in the 6.5 to 7.0 range for best nutrient availability. Now concerning seeding or sodding, my opinion is that seeding is better. Why? Because the grass that you seed is grown in your soil conditions instead of being grown in optimum conditions, which most of us do not have. Then there is the watering problem. Since the sod’s roots only go down 1 to 2 inches, it needs constant watering until it is established, whereas the seed’s roots start traveling downward from germination and is established quicker than the sod which means less watering. The sod is also fertilized heavily to get the desired growth and sale as quickly as possible. If you do not keep up with the fertilizer, the lawn will be like a drug addict going through withdraw. I always recommend seeding because it is less expensive and does better in the long run than sod. Now, if you are overseeding an existing lawn, there is a rule of thumb; if the lawn has less than50% turf, you are better removing the old and starting fresh. If it has more than 50%, overseeding is your route. The next table will help with your computations.
How much seed do I need?
Type of seed lb./1,00sq.ft - Time to germinate
Bentgrass 1 to 2 - Fast (7 to 12 days)
Kentucky Blue 2 - Slow (20 to 28 days)
Chewings Fescue 3 to 5 - Med. (10 to 21 days)
Creeping Fescue 3 to 5 - Med. (10 to 21 days)
Red Fescue 3 to 4 - Med. (10 to 21 days)
Tall Fescue 5 to 6 - Med. (10 to 21 days)
Perennial Ryegrass 4 to 6 - Fast (7 to 14 days)
Before seeding, remove any accumulated leaves and debris in the area to have a good seed-to-soil contact. After seeding, ruff the seed into the soil; do not just seed and walk away. Seed to soil contact is important! The key to seeding is to never let the soil completely dry out until the turf is 2 inches tall. Do not water deeply until the turf is established, and do not mow until it is 2 to 3 inches tall. Perennial ryegrass will be quick to cover, with 90% being covered in 5 weeks, while bluegrass can take until the following season to cover well. Be patient and let nature take its course.
When buying grass seed, you get what you pay for. Fortunately, every package of grass seed has a label, which is required to contain specific information. It must list the amount of five things that might be in that bag or box. First, there is the turfgrass, which is listed in percentage. There may be one or more species with several varieties of each. The next three are grouped in a general category of “other ingredients”, which may include weed seed, inert matter and crop seeds, also listed in percentages. Finally, noxious weeds, as determined by our state agriculture department, will be listed seperately, not by percentage but by numbers per pound.
Noxious Weeds - wild garlic, buckhorn, plantain and annual bluegrass. A top-quality seed will contain NO noxious weeds.
Crop Seeds - these can be more troublesome than noxious weed seed. It can contain seeds such as timothy, rough bluegrass, orchardgrass and bentgrass. Just 1% of these contaminants can produce up to 40 plants per square foot, and that can ruin the look of your lawn. A good seed mix should contain well below 1% of this.
Inert Matter - This includes chaff, hulls, stones and such. It will not harm the look of your lawn, but why pay for something that won’t grow? You want to have less than 3% in you seed.
Weed Seed - This includes common weed seeds that are not noxious. There should be none in your seed.
The Turfgrasses - They are listed by descending order by the percent present in the mixture (also called purity) and the germination percentage of each. Combining those two numbers gives you the real value. The real value is a good measure of the seeds’ quality. To determine the real value, multiply the percentage of contents by the germination percentage and divide by 100. Example; Let’s say we buy a box of “Merion” grass seed. It is listed as 90% pure and the germination percentage is 80%. 90 x 80 /100 gives you 72. 72 percent of what is in the box will germinate to “Merion” bluegrass, with the other 28% being other. To figure the real value of a mixture (different species) or a blend (different varieties of a same species), do the same procedure as above for each seed, add them together and divide and divide by the number of seed types.
Finally, when buying seed, look for a variety of names. Buy only named varieties and stay away from mixes that just list “common Kentucky Bluegrass,”, or “Tall Fescue”. These seed types will only lead to trouble. Last but not least, when you are shopping, remember your yards conditions (such as sunny, dry, moist, etc) and remember which seed types meet those conditions.
OVERSEEDING OR SODDING?
This is one question that you will have to answer yourself, but I do have an opinion. First, are you starting with an existing lawn or starting fresh? If it is a new or old lawn, have the soil checked for nutrient content and pH. This is one of the major problems with grass not performing the way it should. Simple soil testing kits can be purchased at your local garden center or home center. The pH should be in the 6.5 to 7.0 range for best nutrient availability. Now concerning seeding or sodding, my opinion is that seeding is better. Why? Because the grass that you seed is grown in your soil conditions instead of being grown in optimum conditions, which most of us do not have. Then there is the watering problem. Since the sod’s roots only go down 1 to 2 inches, it needs constant watering until it is established, whereas the seed’s roots start traveling downward from germination and is established quicker than the sod which means less watering. The sod is also fertilized heavily to get the desired growth and sale as quickly as possible. If you do not keep up with the fertilizer, the lawn will be like a drug addict going through withdraw. I always recommend seeding because it is less expensive and does better in the long run than sod. Now, if you are overseeding an existing lawn, there is a rule of thumb; if the lawn has less than50% turf, you are better removing the old and starting fresh. If it has more than 50%, overseeding is your route. The next table will help with your computations.
How much seed do I need?
Type of seed lb./1,00sq.ft - Time to germinate
Bentgrass 1 to 2 - Fast (7 to 12 days)
Kentucky Blue 2 - Slow (20 to 28 days)
Chewings Fescue 3 to 5 - Med. (10 to 21 days)
Creeping Fescue 3 to 5 - Med. (10 to 21 days)
Red Fescue 3 to 4 - Med. (10 to 21 days)
Tall Fescue 5 to 6 - Med. (10 to 21 days)
Perennial Ryegrass 4 to 6 - Fast (7 to 14 days)
Before seeding, remove any accumulated leaves and debris in the area to have a good seed-to-soil contact. After seeding, ruff the seed into the soil; do not just seed and walk away. Seed to soil contact is important! The key to seeding is to never let the soil completely dry out until the turf is 2 inches tall. Do not water deeply until the turf is established, and do not mow until it is 2 to 3 inches tall. Perennial ryegrass will be quick to cover, with 90% being covered in 5 weeks, while bluegrass can take until the following season to cover well. Be patient and let nature take its course.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Water Wisely
Try to picture 27,154 gallons of water, enough water to fill a 6 foot deep pool that measures 20 feet by 30 feet. A 1 acre plot of grass needs that much water in a thorough watering. Even a moderate 5,000 square foot lawn will consume 6,000 gallons of water. Now before you start totaling your water bill, there are a few things to consider. You don’t have to supply all of that water with a hose and sprinkler. A good part of that will be supplied through rain. If your soil has enough organic matter in it, it will help store the moisture once it receives it instead of puddling and running off (clay) or leaching through the soil(sand). This number also changes in the summer. Lawns naturally go into a dormancy period when extreme hot weather is present, but we have been instilled with the notion that our lawn must be green ALL season long instead of letting nature run its course. A dormant lawn will resume normal growth when the stress effecting it has subsided (either heat or cold). In many cases, over watering can do more harm than good. Again we place more emphasis on keeping up with the Jounces instead of doing what our lawn wants us to do. The more water a lawn gets early on in the season, the more water it will need later on. Continuous moisture in the Spring will only create lazy roots that will not grow down into the soil, but instead remain up at the surface. On the other hand, to little watering may not be helpful at all. A sprinkler left running 10 minutes in one spot will not have enough time to soak the soil and the water will evaporate, not even getting to the roots. The trick is to water in a way that encourages grass to grow deep roots, generally 6 to 18 inches deep. Now some grasses just won’t grow that deep, such as bentgrass, which has shallow roots. Also keep in mind that root length is in direct relationship with shoot height; you mow low, the roots remain shallow. It is also important to keep in mind what kind of soil you have. The soil will determine when you should water, and even the type of sprinkler you should use. At full saturation, clay soils hold up to 2 1/2” of moisture per foot of depth, and supply turf for almost 2 1/2 weeks without any rain. Loam can hold 1 1/2” of moisture per foot of depth, and sand can hold 3/4” of moisture. You should not water until the reservoir is almost dry.
How much do I water?
Remember the statistics from above. If you apply two inches of water, it would not be too much for a clay soil (2 1/2”), but for a sandy soil, which can only hold up to 3/4”, the 2” would be wasted. Infiltration rates (the amount of water that can be absorbed in one hour) has to be kept in mind along with the holding capacity. These two numbers will effect what sprinkler you use and for how long. If you have a clay soil with a sprinkler running at 1 inch per hour, only 0.1 inch will be absorbed and the rest will be run-off. Not a good deal for you or your lawn. Flow rates for sprinklers are normally printed on the side of the box it came in. What if your sprinkler puts out more water per hour than the soil can accept? Let’s say that your sprinkler puts out 0.6 inches per hour and you have a clay soil that will accept only 0.1 inches per hour. You should run the sprinkler 10 minutes on, 50 minutes off, and you won’t waste a drop. Infiltration rate of water
Soil Texture - Inches/hour
Sandy 1.0
Sandy loam 0.5
Loam 0.25
Clay loam 0.15
Clay 0.1
The key to watering is to make sure the lawn receives 1” of water per week, including rainfall. It is that simple. When watering, do not water after 3 p.m. in the afternoon. Any moisture after this time can sit overnight and become a host for disease. Make sure the lawn dries out thoroughly before nightfall comes.
Remember top water only when necessary, before nightfall, and when you water, water thoroughly.
How much do I water?
Remember the statistics from above. If you apply two inches of water, it would not be too much for a clay soil (2 1/2”), but for a sandy soil, which can only hold up to 3/4”, the 2” would be wasted. Infiltration rates (the amount of water that can be absorbed in one hour) has to be kept in mind along with the holding capacity. These two numbers will effect what sprinkler you use and for how long. If you have a clay soil with a sprinkler running at 1 inch per hour, only 0.1 inch will be absorbed and the rest will be run-off. Not a good deal for you or your lawn. Flow rates for sprinklers are normally printed on the side of the box it came in. What if your sprinkler puts out more water per hour than the soil can accept? Let’s say that your sprinkler puts out 0.6 inches per hour and you have a clay soil that will accept only 0.1 inches per hour. You should run the sprinkler 10 minutes on, 50 minutes off, and you won’t waste a drop. Infiltration rate of water
Soil Texture - Inches/hour
Sandy 1.0
Sandy loam 0.5
Loam 0.25
Clay loam 0.15
Clay 0.1
The key to watering is to make sure the lawn receives 1” of water per week, including rainfall. It is that simple. When watering, do not water after 3 p.m. in the afternoon. Any moisture after this time can sit overnight and become a host for disease. Make sure the lawn dries out thoroughly before nightfall comes.
Remember top water only when necessary, before nightfall, and when you water, water thoroughly.
Friday, August 22, 2008
Lawn Fertilizers - Should I or Shouldn't I? Part 2
Let’s continue our discussion from yesterday and see exactly what is in our bag of fertilizer.
NITROGEN
Of course nitrogen is still an important nutrient. It makes the grass blades grow and green up. On the plus side, nitrogen makes a sturdy rapidly maturing, quick spreading grass, which in itself fights weeds. On the negative side, excessive nitrogen causes shoots to grow too fast, making the succulent and tender, which reduces the ability of the roots to support them. Over extended grass is susceptible to diseases such as brown patch, fusarium patch pithier and powdery mildew.
GRASS TYPES NITROGEN NEEDS (lbs. / 1,000 SQ.FT/year)
Kentucky Bluegrass 2 3 lbs
Fine fescue 1 2 lbs
Tall Fescue 1 2 lbs
Perennial Ryegrass 2 3 lbs
Synthetic fertilizers are here today, gone tomorrow. There are two forms of nitrogen; water-soluble and water-insoluble. The solubility determines how fast the nitrogen becomes available. Water-soluble start breaking down as soon as they hit the dirt, while water-insoluble takes time to break down with the help of soil microorganisms. It may sound great that the nitrogen is readily available, but remember that it is also leached through the soil just as readily. Chances are that there is more water-soluble than water-insoluble in the bags of fertilizer. The three types of water-soluble nitrogens are urea, which contains 45% nitrogen and is sometimes combined with formaldehyde (a suspected carcinogen)to create ureaform, and there is also Ammonium Nitrate, a very strong and very soluble fertilizer that quickly leaches from your soil.
Organic fertilizers are the best type to use because the are slow-acting. This type of fertilizer will help green-up your lawn without the excessive growth. Less growth also means less watering and less fertilizer in the long run. They are moderate in nitrogen content, neutral pH and water-insoluble - just like the lawn likes it. They are usually lower in nitrogen than synthetic fertilizers and may be more expensive, pound per pound in the short run. The idea is that since 1/2 the synthetic nitrogen is loss to leaching, you are closer to being price competitive than you think. There are many organic fertilizers on the market today, so take your time and look at the back panel of the fertilizer bags to make sure.
CALCULATING THE POUNDS/1,000 SQ.FT.
The numbers on the fertilizer bag explains it all. Lets take for example a 50 LB. bag of a 5-10-5 fertilizer. The numbers are the actual pounds per 100 pounds of fertilizer. Also lets say that the 50 LB bag covers 5,000 square feet. There is 2.5 lbs. of nitrogen in the 50 lb. bag. Divide the 2.5 by the SQ.FT. and times by 1000(2.5/5000=.0005x1000=.5 pounds) If your grass type needs 2 lbs. per 1000sq.ft., you would need to apply this 4 times a year, or buy a 10-10-10, etc
THE FORGOTTEN FIVE
The other five macronutrients - phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur - don’t get as much attention as nitrogen, but they are just as important. If you have used a high-nitrogen fertilizer in the past, there may be an imbalance in the soil. The best thing you can do is have your soil tested for pH and nutrients. This will not only tell you if you have a deficiency, but will also tell you how much of each nutrient to add to you soil. Phosphorous Phosphorous works behind the scenes and in the soil. It helps seed to germinate and to establish itself quickly and strongly. For established turf it aids in root growth. Phosphorous is present in every plant cell, where it is used to transform other elements into energy. To maintain adequate supplies of phosphorous in the soil, you need to add only 1/2 pound per 1,000 square feet per year. That can be provided with 5 pounds of bone meal, or you can use fish emulsion, cottonseed meal, or milorganite. Potassium Potassium doesn’t show up in color, growth or density, but has been shown to “toughen” the turf. It makes grass more resistant to heat, cold, drought, disease and traffic. The normal rate per year is 1 to 2 pounds per 1,00 square feet. A good source of potassium is wood ash, but that is not something you can put on your lawn, considering you would need 10 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Calcium, Magnesium and Sulfur Calcium helps by improving the uptake of nitrogen and increasing the growth of root hairs. It is also necessary for cell division within the plant. You can provide calcium by applying dolomitic limestone, which will also supply Magnesium. Magnesium is a component of chlorophyll that plays an important part in photosynthesis and helps absorb phosphorous. Sulfur is a nutrient you shouldn’t have to worry about unless you have been using the high-nitrogen fertilizer. Sulfur improves the grass color, increases carbohydrate reserves, contribute to cold tolerance, protein synthesis and new growth. Powdery mildew is more prevalent when sulfur is low.
Micronutrients
Iron improves fall and winter color, enhances root development, reduces the effects of stress, and is essential for the formation of chlorophyll. Excessive phosphorous creates an iron deficiency. Milorganite is a good source of iron. Manganese Manganese activates the photosynthesis process. Soils that have a high pH (7.5 or above) are usually deficient in this. Zinc, Copper, Boron and Molybdenum These are needed in minute quantities and if not applied properly, can cause the lawn more harm than being deficient. Check the fertilizer bag to see if these are included.
Tomorrow we will look at lime and why we need it.
For more information on organic lawn car, check out my Manual at http://www.thegardeningguru.com/index-11.html
Good Luck and Good Gardening!
NITROGEN
Of course nitrogen is still an important nutrient. It makes the grass blades grow and green up. On the plus side, nitrogen makes a sturdy rapidly maturing, quick spreading grass, which in itself fights weeds. On the negative side, excessive nitrogen causes shoots to grow too fast, making the succulent and tender, which reduces the ability of the roots to support them. Over extended grass is susceptible to diseases such as brown patch, fusarium patch pithier and powdery mildew.
GRASS TYPES NITROGEN NEEDS (lbs. / 1,000 SQ.FT/year)
Kentucky Bluegrass 2 3 lbs
Fine fescue 1 2 lbs
Tall Fescue 1 2 lbs
Perennial Ryegrass 2 3 lbs
Synthetic fertilizers are here today, gone tomorrow. There are two forms of nitrogen; water-soluble and water-insoluble. The solubility determines how fast the nitrogen becomes available. Water-soluble start breaking down as soon as they hit the dirt, while water-insoluble takes time to break down with the help of soil microorganisms. It may sound great that the nitrogen is readily available, but remember that it is also leached through the soil just as readily. Chances are that there is more water-soluble than water-insoluble in the bags of fertilizer. The three types of water-soluble nitrogens are urea, which contains 45% nitrogen and is sometimes combined with formaldehyde (a suspected carcinogen)to create ureaform, and there is also Ammonium Nitrate, a very strong and very soluble fertilizer that quickly leaches from your soil.
Organic fertilizers are the best type to use because the are slow-acting. This type of fertilizer will help green-up your lawn without the excessive growth. Less growth also means less watering and less fertilizer in the long run. They are moderate in nitrogen content, neutral pH and water-insoluble - just like the lawn likes it. They are usually lower in nitrogen than synthetic fertilizers and may be more expensive, pound per pound in the short run. The idea is that since 1/2 the synthetic nitrogen is loss to leaching, you are closer to being price competitive than you think. There are many organic fertilizers on the market today, so take your time and look at the back panel of the fertilizer bags to make sure.
CALCULATING THE POUNDS/1,000 SQ.FT.
The numbers on the fertilizer bag explains it all. Lets take for example a 50 LB. bag of a 5-10-5 fertilizer. The numbers are the actual pounds per 100 pounds of fertilizer. Also lets say that the 50 LB bag covers 5,000 square feet. There is 2.5 lbs. of nitrogen in the 50 lb. bag. Divide the 2.5 by the SQ.FT. and times by 1000(2.5/5000=.0005x1000=.5 pounds) If your grass type needs 2 lbs. per 1000sq.ft., you would need to apply this 4 times a year, or buy a 10-10-10, etc
THE FORGOTTEN FIVE
The other five macronutrients - phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulfur - don’t get as much attention as nitrogen, but they are just as important. If you have used a high-nitrogen fertilizer in the past, there may be an imbalance in the soil. The best thing you can do is have your soil tested for pH and nutrients. This will not only tell you if you have a deficiency, but will also tell you how much of each nutrient to add to you soil. Phosphorous Phosphorous works behind the scenes and in the soil. It helps seed to germinate and to establish itself quickly and strongly. For established turf it aids in root growth. Phosphorous is present in every plant cell, where it is used to transform other elements into energy. To maintain adequate supplies of phosphorous in the soil, you need to add only 1/2 pound per 1,000 square feet per year. That can be provided with 5 pounds of bone meal, or you can use fish emulsion, cottonseed meal, or milorganite. Potassium Potassium doesn’t show up in color, growth or density, but has been shown to “toughen” the turf. It makes grass more resistant to heat, cold, drought, disease and traffic. The normal rate per year is 1 to 2 pounds per 1,00 square feet. A good source of potassium is wood ash, but that is not something you can put on your lawn, considering you would need 10 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Calcium, Magnesium and Sulfur Calcium helps by improving the uptake of nitrogen and increasing the growth of root hairs. It is also necessary for cell division within the plant. You can provide calcium by applying dolomitic limestone, which will also supply Magnesium. Magnesium is a component of chlorophyll that plays an important part in photosynthesis and helps absorb phosphorous. Sulfur is a nutrient you shouldn’t have to worry about unless you have been using the high-nitrogen fertilizer. Sulfur improves the grass color, increases carbohydrate reserves, contribute to cold tolerance, protein synthesis and new growth. Powdery mildew is more prevalent when sulfur is low.
Micronutrients
Iron improves fall and winter color, enhances root development, reduces the effects of stress, and is essential for the formation of chlorophyll. Excessive phosphorous creates an iron deficiency. Milorganite is a good source of iron. Manganese Manganese activates the photosynthesis process. Soils that have a high pH (7.5 or above) are usually deficient in this. Zinc, Copper, Boron and Molybdenum These are needed in minute quantities and if not applied properly, can cause the lawn more harm than being deficient. Check the fertilizer bag to see if these are included.
Tomorrow we will look at lime and why we need it.
For more information on organic lawn car, check out my Manual at http://www.thegardeningguru.com/index-11.html
Good Luck and Good Gardening!
Thursday, August 21, 2008
Lawn Fertilizers - Should I or Shouldn't I?
FERTILIZING YOUR LAWN
At the end of a long Winter, most of us are “Green” deprived. Forget the robins, the first true sign of Spring is a green lawn, especially if it is yours and not your neighbors! This causes the first gardener’s phenomenon known as the Spring suburban fertilizing frenzy. As soon as the first Garden Center gets its delivery of fertilizer, an almost immediate line of cars pull in right behind it. They take it home and dump it on their lawns to be the first ones with a deep, dark green lawn. It works. The grass blades shoot up and they are such a dark green its almost blue. But the problem is weeds thrive right along side of the grass. Diseases strike the overworked grass plants. Lawnmowers barely have enough time to cool off before the grass needs cutting again. The worst part is after the lawn comes back to its normal color, the homeowner rushes back to the Garden Center and buys more fertilizer to start the cycle all over again. The sad part this constant fertilizing instruction was coming from “Turf Experts”. Today the word is enough is enough!
Researchers have now found out that all that fertilizer is actually harming the lawn instead of helping the lawn. Studies at the Alabama Polytechnic University shows that 1/2 of all the soluble nitrogen leaches out of the soil before it can be absorbed by the grass plants. And even the remaining half may be doing more harm than good. Grass plants are very efficient in their use of nitrogen, and can even be considered “fuel efficient”. Babying the lawn by putting all the fertilizer on it may actually reduce the natural efficiency. The is a ton of microorganisms in the soil that are harmed when excessive fertilizer is used, and this can upset the efficiency of the grass plants. Basically you are growing your lawn to death. The best lawn I have ever seen was on Crescent Avenue in Ramsey. The homeowner used 5-10-5 twice a year and the lawn was a beautiful green color for most of it.
When you fertilize, all the nutrients remain at the surface area of the soil. The natural tendency for grass is to have a deep and quite expansive root system. The roots do not have to travel to find nutrients when it is at the soil surface, and compaction can occur, and more importantly, in the summer the lawn will die without excessive watering. Another problem is fertilizer (non-organic) can actually acidify the soil and kill beneficial biological processes. A seven year study at the University of Kentucky showed that increasing fertilizer amounts drastically decreased the pH. The amazing thing learned was that the lawn that had the least amount of fertilizer had the lowest levels of thatch. At the highest levels, there were 65% less earthworms than at the lower level, which was due to the lower amounts of calcium, which is important to the earthworms metabolism.
We should instead address the soil instead of the topgrowth. A lawn can only be as good as the soil it is growing in.
Organic fertilizers take time to break down and add nutrients to the soil. As the break down, they feed the roots and allow them to produce carbohydrates, which is the energy source in plants as well as people. The goal of fertilizing is to build up this reserve of carbohydrates for times of stress, and to keep the plants growing steadily and healthily during these times.
Lets think about the normal fertilizer application schedule for one minute. In Spring, they suggest a high nitrogen fertilizer to get the lawn growing. This high nitrogen application causes the grass to have spurt growth, and it draws upon its carbohydrate reserves. The grass gets “hooked”, just like a drug addict, dependent on more fertilizer. The excessive growth also draws again on its carbohydrate reserves to help heal its wounds from the grass cutting. The roots don’t develop as they should, so when the hot weather comes, they are unable to dig deep for moisture. During the second application towards Summer, another high nitrogen application is suggested to continue your lawn to look its best. This application increases the respiration of the plants which again reduces the carbohydrate reserves. The grass weakens. At the end of Summer, you have to reseed and use a fall fertilizer to get the grass growing. And before you know it, it is Winter and the lawn goes into this dormant period without adequate reserves of carbohydrates to get it to Spring. And then the cycle begins again.
Tomorrow we will discuss the individual nutrients and the plants' needs. For more information you can read my Organic Lawn Care Manual at http://www.thegardeningguru.com/index-11.html.
At the end of a long Winter, most of us are “Green” deprived. Forget the robins, the first true sign of Spring is a green lawn, especially if it is yours and not your neighbors! This causes the first gardener’s phenomenon known as the Spring suburban fertilizing frenzy. As soon as the first Garden Center gets its delivery of fertilizer, an almost immediate line of cars pull in right behind it. They take it home and dump it on their lawns to be the first ones with a deep, dark green lawn. It works. The grass blades shoot up and they are such a dark green its almost blue. But the problem is weeds thrive right along side of the grass. Diseases strike the overworked grass plants. Lawnmowers barely have enough time to cool off before the grass needs cutting again. The worst part is after the lawn comes back to its normal color, the homeowner rushes back to the Garden Center and buys more fertilizer to start the cycle all over again. The sad part this constant fertilizing instruction was coming from “Turf Experts”. Today the word is enough is enough!
Researchers have now found out that all that fertilizer is actually harming the lawn instead of helping the lawn. Studies at the Alabama Polytechnic University shows that 1/2 of all the soluble nitrogen leaches out of the soil before it can be absorbed by the grass plants. And even the remaining half may be doing more harm than good. Grass plants are very efficient in their use of nitrogen, and can even be considered “fuel efficient”. Babying the lawn by putting all the fertilizer on it may actually reduce the natural efficiency. The is a ton of microorganisms in the soil that are harmed when excessive fertilizer is used, and this can upset the efficiency of the grass plants. Basically you are growing your lawn to death. The best lawn I have ever seen was on Crescent Avenue in Ramsey. The homeowner used 5-10-5 twice a year and the lawn was a beautiful green color for most of it.
When you fertilize, all the nutrients remain at the surface area of the soil. The natural tendency for grass is to have a deep and quite expansive root system. The roots do not have to travel to find nutrients when it is at the soil surface, and compaction can occur, and more importantly, in the summer the lawn will die without excessive watering. Another problem is fertilizer (non-organic) can actually acidify the soil and kill beneficial biological processes. A seven year study at the University of Kentucky showed that increasing fertilizer amounts drastically decreased the pH. The amazing thing learned was that the lawn that had the least amount of fertilizer had the lowest levels of thatch. At the highest levels, there were 65% less earthworms than at the lower level, which was due to the lower amounts of calcium, which is important to the earthworms metabolism.
We should instead address the soil instead of the topgrowth. A lawn can only be as good as the soil it is growing in.
Organic fertilizers take time to break down and add nutrients to the soil. As the break down, they feed the roots and allow them to produce carbohydrates, which is the energy source in plants as well as people. The goal of fertilizing is to build up this reserve of carbohydrates for times of stress, and to keep the plants growing steadily and healthily during these times.
Lets think about the normal fertilizer application schedule for one minute. In Spring, they suggest a high nitrogen fertilizer to get the lawn growing. This high nitrogen application causes the grass to have spurt growth, and it draws upon its carbohydrate reserves. The grass gets “hooked”, just like a drug addict, dependent on more fertilizer. The excessive growth also draws again on its carbohydrate reserves to help heal its wounds from the grass cutting. The roots don’t develop as they should, so when the hot weather comes, they are unable to dig deep for moisture. During the second application towards Summer, another high nitrogen application is suggested to continue your lawn to look its best. This application increases the respiration of the plants which again reduces the carbohydrate reserves. The grass weakens. At the end of Summer, you have to reseed and use a fall fertilizer to get the grass growing. And before you know it, it is Winter and the lawn goes into this dormant period without adequate reserves of carbohydrates to get it to Spring. And then the cycle begins again.
Tomorrow we will discuss the individual nutrients and the plants' needs. For more information you can read my Organic Lawn Care Manual at http://www.thegardeningguru.com/index-11.html.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Turf's Up!
The most important item to put on your to do list as we head toward the end of August is to reinvigorate your lawn. Give the lawn a good raking to remove a dead material from the lawn. Not only will this improve air and water movement into your soil, but it will also give seed better contact with the soil, which is essential. As for grass seed, it can vary tremendously throughout the Untied States. In the south, bermuda grass and centipede grass are the warm season grasses of choice. In the rest of the country we have a choice of either bluegrass, ryegrass and fescues. Sod is made up of bluegrass, but it is a heavy feeder and needs plenty of moisture during the summer to keep it green. Ryegrass is a great alternative as it matches up (leaf shape and texture) with bluegrass very well, but does not need as much fertilizer or water. Fine-leaved fescues are gret for shady areas, while turf-type tall fescues can handle a lot of abuse and are used mainly in sports fields. TTT Fescues do not match well with bluegrass or ryegrass, so don't overseed your lawn with this as it is a clump forming grass. Before seeding, remember to cut your lawn. You do not want to cut your lawn as the seed is germinating because you will remove the new plants from the turf since they have no real root system.
Since we are headed for the cooler temperatures of fall, the seed will germinate and grow very easily. Grass grows best when the days are warm and night time temperatures are cool (spring and fall), and there is adequate rainfall. Turf only needs 1 inch of rain per week, and the simplest way to determine how much rain you have had is to put an empty tuna fish can out and see if it fills up in a week. This is also an effective way to measure water amounts when you have an irrigation system as well.
Check out "The Gardening Guru's" Web page ( www.thegardeningguru.com ) for answers to all of your gardening questions, sign up for his Monthly Newsletter at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gardeningguru, or listen to his on-line radio show at http://www.talkshoe.com/tc/12385
Since we are headed for the cooler temperatures of fall, the seed will germinate and grow very easily. Grass grows best when the days are warm and night time temperatures are cool (spring and fall), and there is adequate rainfall. Turf only needs 1 inch of rain per week, and the simplest way to determine how much rain you have had is to put an empty tuna fish can out and see if it fills up in a week. This is also an effective way to measure water amounts when you have an irrigation system as well.
Check out "The Gardening Guru's" Web page ( www.thegardeningguru.com ) for answers to all of your gardening questions, sign up for his Monthly Newsletter at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gardeningguru, or listen to his on-line radio show at http://www.talkshoe.com/tc/12385
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)