tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32863716779882509122024-03-13T04:00:32.792-04:00The Gardening Guru's BlogThe gardening help you need is here! Check in regularly for new tips to keep your garden green and growing!The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.comBlogger51125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-55236986763596725642017-04-29T15:57:00.002-04:002017-04-29T15:57:29.703-04:00Why and How to Create a Healing Garden<article class="l-section for_blogpost preview_basic post-2255 post type-post status-publish format-standard has-post-thumbnail hentry category-garden-planning-design tag-garden tag-gardening tag-heal tag-healing tag-rehab tag-rehabilitation tag-therapeutic-garden tag-therapy" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(224, 222, 220); box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px auto; position: relative;"><div class="l-section-h i-cf" style="box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px auto; max-width: 1310px; padding: 4rem 0px 0px; position: relative; width: 917px; z-index: 1;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-outline-level: 3;">
<span style="font-family: inherit, serif; font-size: 18pt;">In the best of times flowers help us celebrate <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-outline-level: 3;">
<span style="font-family: inherit, serif; font-size: 18pt;">the joyous occasions in our lives. In more <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-outline-level: 3;">
<span style="font-family: inherit, serif; font-size: 18pt;">difficult times plants give us hope and<br />
inspiration to meet life’s challenges.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The role of plants and gardens in
healing is ancient. As early as 3000 B.C. the <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Chinese were using medicinal herbs.
The Greeks built a temple for Aesclepius, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">their god of healing, set among
mineral springs, bathing pools, and healing gardens. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In colonial America, the Quakers
felt a deep attachment to nature and believed <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">gardens were a place of creativity.
One of the first programs to use plants in a <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">therapeutic setting was established
in 1879 at Philadelphia’s Friends Hospital <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">after a physician noticed that
psychiatric patients working in the hospital’s fields <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">and flower gardens were calmer and
that the gardens had a “curative” effect on them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Within the past few decades, the
medical community is rediscovering the healing <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">power of gardens. Many hospitals and
health care facilities are incorporating green <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">spaces and gardens into their
surroundings; horticultural therapy programs are often <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">an important part of a patient’s
treatment.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Healing gardens can be found in a
variety of institutions including substance abuse <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">treatment centers, outpatient
clinics, long-term care facilities, hospices and retirement <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">homes, as well as in botanic gardens
and arboreta around the world. Positive results <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">can be less pain medication and had
shorter hospital stays.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">For an individual recovering from a
serious illness such as cancer or stroke, gardens <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">can be an important part of healing
by providing hope and inspiration. They can <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">give patients a tranquil place to
escape from the world of doctors, hospitals and <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">sickness.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The physical efforts of
gardening—digging, planting, bending and walking—are <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">great forms of exercise to keep the
body healthy. Strenuous yard work such as <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">digging or weeding not only burns
calories, it is similar to weight training in <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">building bones and preventing
osteoporosis. Gardens and gardening activity <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">can also improve mental outlook and
our emotional mood by reducing stress, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">anxiety and depression. Studies have
found that gardening can lower blood <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">pressure and cholesterol, which
reduces the risk of heart disease.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A healing garden can take many forms
but always provides interaction with <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">nature. Visually plants provide
inspirational colors or peaceful tones. We can <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">hear the relaxing sound of water or
the stimulating activity of visiting wildlife. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The rich aroma of fresh earth and
the delightful scent of perfumed herbs fill <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">the air we breathe, while the fresh
flavor of a crispy pea pod or sweet berry <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">tempts our taste buds. We can touch
the velvety smoothness of a flower petal <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">or be touched by the movement of
leaves in the wind.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Begin to create your own garden of
healing today simply by planting a container <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">filled with colorful flowers, a
nutritious vegetable, or a herb such as lavender, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">sage, basil or thyme. In addition to
being attractive and aromatic, these and <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">many other herbs have been used
medicinally for centuries.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 18pt;">Incorporating a few
simple design elements turns <o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 18pt;">any garden into a place
of healing and inspiration.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-outline-level: 2;">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-list: l3 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Grow plants that you find pleasing. Are you energized
by bright colors? <o:p></o:p></span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Then include annuals such as zinnias, petunias, sunflowers
or cosmos. If <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">you enjoy cooking, incorporate herbs, vegetables, and edible
flowers into <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">your garden. Plants such as sage or lavender can be
harvested and used for<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> aromatherapy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Include a place to sit and observe the beauty of nature
or a path for walking<o:p></o:p></span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> through the garden.
Enclose it with shrubs or fencing to create a secluded <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">retreat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Add a focal point for meditation and reflection such as
a piece of sculpture, <o:p></o:p></span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">a special plant, interesting rocks, wind chimes or a water
fountain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0in;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo4; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Encourage butterflies, birds, insects and other
wildlife to the garden for <o:p></o:p></span></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">their healing energy. Birdfeeders and birdhouses quickly and
easily begin <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">attracting garden visitors. Choose plants that supply nectar
and food<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> including coneflowers
(<i>Echinacea purpurea</i>), butterfly flower <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">(<i>Aesclepias tuberosa</i>) salvias (<i>Salvia spp.</i>),
dill, parsley, and sunflowers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The design and development of a
healing garden, just like the process of healing <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">and recovery, takes place over time.
It is that journey and the time spent with <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">nature that heals our body and soul.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</article>The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-78150164433545795282017-04-19T19:44:00.000-04:002017-04-19T19:44:13.390-04:00Growing and Using Herbs, part 2: Dill<article class="l-section for_blogpost preview_basic post-2216 post type-post status-publish format-standard has-post-thumbnail hentry category-foodscaping tag-butterfiles tag-dill tag-food tag-foodie tag-herb tag-herbs" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(224, 222, 220); box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "Cormorant Garamond", serif; margin: 0px auto; position: relative;"><div class="l-section-h i-cf" style="box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px auto; max-width: 1310px; padding: 4rem 0px 0px; position: relative; width: 917px; z-index: 1;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRD-ygV5qN-lORL55fxWcfJkZpCFbrT8-Db_1eWGDWxMbLd2CNSAYsaPumQZF7ss6x99bHDgHvANfNbWXRRAjJU2jKDK3vq_-YwNgPR_uED1J92Gv-xbk2Uqr-mH93t31rWvIiTrxHcZw/s1600/Used-Herb_Dill_Fernleaf-AAS-Ball-201x300_f_improf_201x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRD-ygV5qN-lORL55fxWcfJkZpCFbrT8-Db_1eWGDWxMbLd2CNSAYsaPumQZF7ss6x99bHDgHvANfNbWXRRAjJU2jKDK3vq_-YwNgPR_uED1J92Gv-xbk2Uqr-mH93t31rWvIiTrxHcZw/s1600/Used-Herb_Dill_Fernleaf-AAS-Ball-201x300_f_improf_201x300.jpg" /></a><div class="w-blog" style="box-sizing: border-box;">
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Dill (Anethum graveolens), a member of the carrot family, </div>
<div>
and is valued both for its flavorful foliage and for its </div>
<div>
pungent seeds. As annuals, dill plants die each year, </div>
<div>
but their seeds can winter over in the soil to pop up the </div>
<div>
following year. Dill grows well in gardens throughout </div>
<div>
zones 3-10.<br /><br /><br />When growing from seed, reduce crowding by pulling </div>
<div>
up weak, spindly sprouts to allow 2 to 6 inches of space </div>
<div>
between them. Dill prefers fairly moist soil throughout </div>
<div>
the growing season. Once plants have established good </div>
<div>
root systems, water only when rainfall is sparse if your </div>
<div>
soil is decent and mulched. In thin, poor and unmulched </div>
<div>
soil, dill needs watering a couple of times a week when </div>
<div>
it does not rain. If possible, avoid overhead watering in </div>
<div>
favor of a drip or porous hose system. Spread mulch on </div>
<div>
the soil around the plants when they are about 6 inches </div>
<div>
tall to discourage weeds.Dill is fast-growing enough that </div>
<div>
some of its foliage is mature enough to harvest in only </div>
<div>
eight weeks. Plan to sow crops in succession, three weeks </div>
<div>
apart, for a good supply over the entire growing season. </div>
<div>
Dill does best in full sun (with a bit of afternoon shade </div>
<div>
in the South). While fairly tolerant of poor soil conditions, </div>
<div>
it prefers a sandy or loamy soil that drains well. It is a </div>
<div>
light feeder, so extra fertilizer is not necessary in </div>
<div>
reasonably fertile soil. It’s easiest to sow seeds directly </div>
<div>
into the garden in rows, ¼ to ½ inch deep. Firm soil </div>
<div>
over the seeds and water gently. For a more naturalistic </div>
<div>
planting, scatter the seeds over a patch of ground; cover </div>
<div>
with 1/2 inch of soil, and water. Space plants 8 to 10 </div>
<div>
inches apart if harvesting leaves, or 10 to 12 inches apart </div>
<div>
if harvesting seed. If transplanting starts, take great pains </div>
<div>
to avoid disturbing the taproot that has formed. Dill can </div>
<div>
also be grown in containers and the dwarf varieties are </div>
<div>
especially suited for this use.</div>
<div>
<br /><span style="font-size: large;">Harvesting and Storing Dill</span><br /><br />Dill leaves taste best picked just before flowers form. </div>
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Start picking the leaves as soon as they are large </div>
<div>
enough to use. Pick early in the morning or in the late </div>
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evening, clipping close to the stem. If you wish to </div>
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harvest dill seed, allow flowers to form then go to seed. </div>
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Cut the seedheads when the majority of seeds have </div>
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formed–about 2 to 3 weeks after the blossoming starts. </div>
<div>
Hang the seed heads upside down in a paper bag. </div>
<div>
The seeds will fall into the bag when they mature and </div>
<div>
dry out. Freshly picked dill leaves will keep for </div>
<div>
several days in the refrigerator if placed in a jar of </div>
<div>
water and covered with plastic. They store for several </div>
<div>
months if layered with pickling salt in a covered jar </div>
<div>
in the refrigerator. When you are ready to use the </div>
<div>
leaves, simply wash them and use them as fresh. </div>
<div>
For longer storage, dry by hanging bunches of stems </div>
<div>
upside down in a dark, dry, airy place until they are </div>
<div>
crumbly. Store them in a tightly sealed jar away from </div>
<div>
light and use within 4 to 6 months. Or use a food </div>
<div>
dehydrator according to instructions. Freeze dill by </div>
<div>
cutting the leaves–long stems and all–into sections </div>
<div>
short enough to fit into plastic bags. Do not chop the </div>
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leaves. Keep in the freezer up to 6 months.</div>
The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-40774932765631862532017-04-19T19:16:00.000-04:002017-04-19T19:33:41.311-04:00Growing and Using Herbs, part 1: Basil<br />
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<article class="l-section for_blogpost preview_basic post-2202 post type-post status-publish format-standard has-post-thumbnail hentry category-foodscaping tag-basil tag-culinary tag-food tag-foodie tag-garden tag-herb" style="background-color: white; border-color: rgb(224, 222, 220); box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "cormorant garamond", serif; margin: 0px auto; position: relative;"><div class="l-section-h i-cf" style="box-sizing: border-box; margin: 0px auto; max-width: 1310px; padding: 4rem 0px 0px; position: relative; width: 917px; z-index: 1;">
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Basil (<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Ocimum basilicum</em>) is a culinary herb of the family Lamiaceae. It is<br />
also called the “king of herbs” and the “royal herb” possibly because of the<br />
name’s meaning in Greek. It is best known as a culinary herb prominently<br />
featured in Italian cuisine, and also plays a major role in Southeast Asian<br />
cuisines. Depending on the species and cultivar, the leaves may taste<br />
somewhat like anise, with a strong, pungent, often sweet smell.</div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 700;">How to Grow Basil</span></h2>
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To grow this tender annual from seed,<br />
sow in flats about 6 weeks before the<br />
last frost. Sow seeds and cover with the<br />
growing medium to about twice the<br />
depth of the seed. Keep soil at 70-72<br />
degrees F, and keep moist. Basil<br />
seedlings are very sensitive and most<br />
losses occur due to low moisture and<br />
low temperatures. If not crowded in<br />
the seed flat, do not thin, but let them<br />
grow to 3 to 4 inches before trans-<br />
planting. Basil likes the warmth of the<br />
full sun to grow best. Lift transplants<br />
carefully by the leaves instead of the<br />
stem. Set outdoors only after soil and<br />
air temperatures are warm. One chilly night can set plants back.</div>
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Basil can be directly sown in the garden after the soil has warmed up and<br />
nights are not too cool. Be sure to sow to a depth of twice the size of the<br />
seed or heavy rains may wash the seeds away. Purple basil, lacking<br />
chlorophyll, is more susceptible to shock in the early stages.</div>
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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 700;">Harvesting and Storing Basil</span></h2>
<div style="box-sizing: border-box;">
Sweet green basil can be dried, frozen in ice cubes, frozen as prepared<br />
pesto or used fresh. Blend fresh basil leaves with pine nuts, oil, garlic<br />
and cheese for a bright green, fresh-tasting pesto; perfect for pesto or<br />
grilled meats. It is also good for making flavored vinegar for salad<br />
dressing or suffused in oil for flavored oil. Purple basil is best used<br />
fresh in salads, and for making flavored vinegar. In the garden, purple <br />
basil is a colorful contrast to annual flowers, and its color and<br />
blooms are useful in cut arrangements.</div>
</div>
</section>The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-13966931951984411012017-01-25T16:31:00.001-05:002017-01-25T16:31:56.018-05:00<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="mcnTextBlock" style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-collapse: collapse; color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; min-width: 100%; padding: 0px; width: 100%px;"><tbody class="mcnTextBlockOuter" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">
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<tr style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="mcnTextContent" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #505050; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 18px 9px;" valign="top"><div style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 18px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">2017 is the Year of the Pansy!</strong></span></div>
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<tr style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="mcnImageBlockInner" style="border-collapse: collapse; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" valign="top"><table align="left" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="mcnImageContentContainer" style="border-collapse: collapse; margin: 0px; min-width: 100%; padding: 0px; width: 100%px;"><tbody style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">
<tr style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="mcnImageContent" style="border-collapse: collapse; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: center;" valign="top"><a class="" href="http://ngb.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e&id=29dbc48d50&e=b4d9836df5" style="color: #004182; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_blank" title="" xcomment="target=_blank"><img align="center" alt="Year of the Begonia" attr="src" class="mcnImage" id="blkImgId6" src="https://gallery.mailchimp.com/6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e/images/cb38ef45-dacd-4eeb-a762-0933d5cf3e59.jpg" style="border: 0px; display: inline !important; height: auto; line-height: 12px; margin: 0px; max-width: 1023px; outline: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: bottom;" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
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<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="mcnTextBlock" style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-collapse: collapse; color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px; min-width: 100%; padding: 0px; width: 100%px;"><tbody class="mcnTextBlockOuter" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">
<tr style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="mcnTextBlockInner" style="border-collapse: collapse; margin: 0px; padding: 9px 0px 0px;" valign="top"><table align="left" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="mcnTextContentContainer" style="border-collapse: collapse; margin: 0px; max-width: 100%; min-width: 100%; padding: 0px; width: 100%px;"><tbody style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">
<tr style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><td class="mcnTextContent" style="border-collapse: collapse; color: #505050; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 18px 9px;" valign="top"><img align="left" attr="src" height="139" id="blkImgId7" src="https://gallery.mailchimp.com/6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e/images/d0cdb245-fcf2-4cf3-979b-9ec2e7c82659.jpg" style="border: 0px; font-family: arial; height: 139px; line-height: 14px; margin: 2px; outline: none; padding: 0px; width: 150px;" width="150" /><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" />Pansies are such a friendly-faced flower! But until the 19th century most people considered them a weed. Today, pansies are a hybrid plant cultivated from those wildflowers in Europe and western Asia. Much of the collection and cultivation of pansies can be attributed to plantsmen and women in the UK and Europe more than 200 years ago. For example, Lady Mary Elizabeth Bennet, daughter of the Earl of Tankerville, and her gardener cross-bred a wide variety of Viola tricolor (common name “Heartseaseâ€) and showcased their pansies to the horticultural world in 1813. Further experiments around the same time eventually grew the class to over 400 garden pansy varieties.<br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" />Garden pansies (<em style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Viola x </em><em style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">wittrockiana</em><em style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">)</em> are a mixture of several species, including Viola tricolor. Oftentimes the names “pansyâ€, “violaâ€, and “violet†are interchangeable. However modern pansies are classified by the American Violet Society as having large-flowered blooms with two slightly overlapping upper petals, two side petals, and a single bottom petal, with a slight beard in its center. They’re considered annual bedding plants, used for garden decoration during cooler planting seasons. Pansies come in a rainbow of colors: from crisp white to almost black, and most all colors in between. They are also a great addition to your spring or fall vegetable garden as they are edible and pair well with lettuces. They can also be candied and used to decorate sweets or other dishes.<br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" />Read more about the history of pansies <a href="http://ngb.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e&id=98434cecfd&e=b4d9836df5" style="color: forestgreen; font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_blank" xcomment="target=_blank">here</a>.<br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" />Most pansies fall into a few categories: Large (3 to 4 in.), Medium (2 to 3 in.) Multiflora (1 to 2 in.) and a new category of Trailing pansy. Some modern large-flowered pansy series are Majestic Giant Mix, bred by Sakata (a <a href="http://ngb.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e&id=12b4fe73b3&e=b4d9836df5" style="color: forestgreen; font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_blank">1966 All-America Selections Winner</a>); Delta, bred by Goldsmith Seeds; and Matrix, bred by PanAmerican Seed. Medium-sized pansy series include Crown and Imperial by Sakata (<a href="http://ngb.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e&id=3ab84a6d40&e=b4d9836df5" style="color: forestgreen; font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_blank">Imperial Blue</a> won an All-America Selections in 1975). Multiflora pansy series like <a href="http://ngb.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e&id=e25707011f&e=b4d9836df5" style="color: forestgreen; font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_blank">Maxim</a> and <a href="http://ngb.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e&id=c07abad6fd&e=b4d9836df5" style="color: forestgreen; font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_blank">Padparadja</a> won AAS awards in the early 1990s. New on the scene for hanging baskets and ground cover are WonderFall from Syngenta, and Cool Wave® pansies, from PanAmerican Seed – the makers of Wave® petunias. These Trailing pansies spread over 2 ft. wide and overwinter in fall gardens. Today’s garden pansy varieties can fill any sunny space – large or small, hanging overhead or growing underfoot – with soft fragrance and happy blooms.<br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><strong style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Starting Your Pansies From Seed:</strong><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" />To germinate, start your pansy seeds indoors with a soilless mixture (this helps prevent disease on the seedlings). Plant seed 1/8-in. deep with a light cover and a gentle watering. Pansies prefer darkness for germination. The media temperature should be 60-65°F and keep air temperature at 70-75°F. The media should stay damp (covering with a plastic wrap or damp newspaper will help retain humidity. A fine spray or mister can be added if the media dries. Germination occurs in 10-20 days. When shoots appear, remove covering and move the flat to a brightly lit but cool room to continue to grow. Continue to grow cool. Separate seedlings into larger containers after two sets of leaves appear. Begin to feed with diluted plant food.<br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><strong style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">For Transplants or Purchased Finished Plants:</strong><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" />space your pansies 6 to 10 in. apart in a well-drained and fertile soil location. The best location is an area that receives morning sun. Adding granular or time-release nutrition to the soil is encouraged, especially for trailing pansies as this increases their vigor and number of blooms. Offer plenty of water at planting and during their adjustment period to help establish roots and minimize stress. Mulching can help retain moisture and reduce any weeds that may compete with your plants. Pansies planted in the spring will enjoy the warm days and cool nights of the season. Most V. wittrockiana will begin to diminish or go out of flower as nighttime temperatures begin to rise in the summer. When planted in the north for fall outdoor decorating, pansies will enjoy a shorter but colorful season of blooms and in many cases will overwinter to pop up again the following spring. Southern gardeners often use pansies as their winter color and enjoy them all season long.<br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" />For more information on Pansies, please see our NGB website<a href="http://ngb.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=6b87cbdbca7a158540d881d9e&id=b9d153c407&e=b4d9836df5" style="color: forestgreen; font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_blank"> Year of the Pansy</a> page!<br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /> <br style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" /><em style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">The National Garden Bureau recognizes and thanks, PanAm Seed as the author of this fact sheet. </em><em style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">This fact sheet is provided as an educational service of the National Garden Bureau. There are no limitations on the use. Please credit the National Garden Bureau. </em><em style="font-family: arial; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Photos can be obtained from the NGB website in the area labeled “Image Downloads.†National Garden Bureau would like to thank our members for providing the photos for this feature. Please credit the National Garden Bureau anytime one of these images is used.</em></td></tr>
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<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Pansy Inspire Plus Beaconsfield</strong></div>
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<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Pansy ColossusTricolor Imperial</strong></div>
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<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Pansy Nature Mulberry Shades</strong></div>
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<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Pansy King Henry </strong></div>
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<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Pansy Majestic Giants II Blue Jeans</strong></div>
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<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Pansy Majestic Giants II Mix</strong></div>
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<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Pansy Matrix Solar Flare</strong></div>
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<strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Pansy Panola Primrose</strong></div>
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The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-67535845615837803482013-07-25T21:44:00.001-04:002013-07-25T21:44:32.868-04:00Seeds Of Death - Full Movie<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/eUd9rRSLY4A" width="480"></iframe><br />
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Something to watch instead of reading. Inform yourselves about the dangers of GMO's. <br />
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The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-60749843366258646662013-06-11T19:29:00.000-04:002013-06-11T19:29:05.182-04:002013 is the Year of the Wildflower<h1 style="background-color: #f4f4f4; color: rgb(32, 32, 32) !important; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 26px; line-height: 26px; margin: 0px; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: #f4f4f4; color: #505050; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; line-height: 21px;">Wildflowers are one of Mother Nature’s loveliest gifts. Their changing panorama of colors, shapes, sizes and heights provides delight throughout the seasons. Wildflowers can be used anywhere. In the home landscape they are ideal for creating colorful beds and borders, as well as offering a lower-maintenance alternative for large areas or replacing turf grass. Wildflowers can be planted to cover large, open areas or assist in the recovery of a landscape that has been damaged or destroyed by the actions of people, a natural disaster or the spread of invasive plants.<br /><br /><strong>WHAT IS A WILDFLOWER? </strong><br />Wildflower is not an exact term that is well defined. Some people say a wildflower is a plant that was not intentionally seeded or planted and grows without cultivation. Others classify a wildflower as any plant growing without the help of man regardless of the country of origin. Still others define a wildflower as a plant found in a specific geographic area that was grown from seed or plants also from that area.<br /><br />Wildflowers and other plants that were growing before European settlement in what we now call the United States, Canada and Mexico are called native plants or indigenous species. Other plants, often referred to as exotics or aliens, were originally brought here from another part of the world. Many exotic species including flowers, grasses, trees and shrubs are among our favorite garden plants. A few, including some wildflowers, have escaped and become established as part of a local environment or naturalized. Some exotic species have even become invasive and are considered noxious weeds that need to be eradicated.<br /></span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f4f4f4; color: #505050; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; line-height: 21px;"><strong>TO READ ABOUT THE HISTORY OF WILDFLOWERS, <a href="http://www.ngb.org/year_of/index.cfm?YOID=35" style="color: #eb4102; font-weight: normal; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">CLICK HERE</a> FOR THE COMPLETE ARTICLE </strong></span><br />
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<br /><strong>WHY PLANT WILDFLOWERS</strong><br />A garden of wildflowers offers benefits to both the gardener and the environment. Once established, properly chosen wildflowers require less maintenance than traditional landscape plantings which can mean less watering, fertilizing, pest control and mowing. Some plants have deep root systems that prevent water run off and soil erosion, and enable them to withstand drought. Their growth also brings earthworms and beneficial soil microorganisms to enhance soil health. And colorful blossoms can be arranged into lovely, casual bouquets that brighten the home.<br />Flowers provide nectar and pollen sources for bees, butterflies and other pollinators, while ripened seeds are a food source for birds and wildlife. Current research suggests that native plants and flowers might be more attractive to native bees than exotic flowers. Even a small area in a garden or landscape planted with wildflowers that bloom at varying times throughout the growing season helps attract and support pollinators.<br /><br /><strong>SOME POPULAR PERENNIAL WILDFLOWERS</strong><br />Many of these beautiful yet hard-working plants are equally at home in garden beds and borders as they are in larger wildflower plantings and restoration projects. Purple coneflower (<em>Echinacea purpurea</em>), California poppy (<em>Eschscholzia californica</em>), columbine (<em>Aquilegia canadensis</em>), butterfly weed (<em>Asclepias tuberosa</em>), and black-eyed or brown-eyed Susans (<em>Rudbeckia triloba</em> and <em>R. hirta</em>) are among the popular wildflowers planted by American gardeners, all of which happen to be native to the U.S.<br /><br />One of the most admired wildflowers is <a href="http://www.americanmeadows.com/purple-coneflower-seeds?___store=default" style="color: #eb4102; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">Purple Coneflower</a> (<em>Echinacea purpurea</em>). It is native to the Midwestern prairies and dry, open woods of the Southeast but can be found in gardens from Maine to California because it is fairly adaptable to most types of soil and does well even in dry conditions. Plants flower from late spring to early fall attracting butterflies and bees to the large, purple, daisy-like flowers. After the long-lasting blooms drop their petals, the distinctive seed heads develop and provide food for goldfinches and other birds. (Zones 3-8)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-8226-wild-bergamot.aspx" style="color: #eb4102; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">Wild Bergamot</a> (<em>Monarda fistulosa</em>) is native to a large part of the country including the Northeast, Midwest and Rocky Mountain region. Also called Beebalm, the whorls of pink to lilac colored flowers open in summer to attract bees, hummingbirds and a variety of other pollinating insects. It gets the name Wild Bergamot from the aromatic leaves that have a scent reminiscent of the bergamot orange tree of Europe. Monarda had many medicinal uses to the Native Americans. Today the leaves are often used to make tea. Plants do best in dry open areas and woodlands but can grow in moist soils as long as they are well drained. (Zones 3-9)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.botanicalinterests.com/products/index/srch:eastern%20columbine" style="color: #eb4102; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">Eastern Columbine</a> (<em>Aquilegia canadensis</em>) despite its species name is native to the East and Midwest U.S. as well as eastern Canada. It is one of about 30 species of Columbine found in North America. Columbine is often found in a shady woodland setting though they have a deep taproot that enables them to grow in dry sites. The colorful red and yellow flowers that open in spring and summer are a favorite of hummingbirds. Blue Columbine or Rocky Mountain Blue Columbine (Aquilegia caerulea) has beautiful blue and white flowers and is one of the many columbines found in the western U.S. It is the state flower of Colorado. (Zones 3-9)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.americanmeadows.com/wildflower-seeds/wildflower-species/new-england-aster-seeds" style="color: #eb4102; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">New England Aster</a> (<em>Symphyotricum novae-angliae</em>, previously <em>Aster novae-angliae</em>) is a favorite of many gardeners for the beautiful violet-purple flowers that cover the plant in fall. Its native range is from New England all the way west to the Rocky Mountains and as far south as Tennessee and North Carolina. Plants grow best in areas with full sun and moist but well-drained soils. Valuable in the garden and any wildflower planting for its late season color, New England aster is also a nectar source for Monarch butterflies as well as attracting native bees and pollinators. (Zones 3-7)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.territorialseed.com/product/738" style="color: #eb4102; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">California Poppy</a> (<em>Eschscholzia californica</em>) is perennial in its native California but grown as an annual in colder climates. Spanish explorers who saw the California hillsides covered with the golden orange poppies called the area the Land of Fire. It was introduced into European gardens in the 1830’s. California Poppy has golden-orange, silky, saucer-shaped flowers that open during the day and close at night or on cloudy days. Plants bloom best in the cool weather of spring and fall. In mild climates it will bloom several times per year. In colder climates, it may self-seed in spring and flower again in the fall. California Poppy is the state flower of California. (Zones 8-10)<br /><br />While some perennial wildflowers adapt to a range of growing conditions, other wildflowers prefer a specific region of the country or very specific environmental conditions. <a href="http://www.botanicalinterests.com/products/view/1198/Chocolate-Flower-Seeds/srch:chocolate%20flower" style="color: #eb4102; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">Chocolate Flower</a> (<em>Berlandiera lyrata</em>) is a delightful treasure with cute, yellow, daisy-like flowers that exude the smell of chocolate in the morning. However, it is native to the dry parts of Kansas, Colorado and south to Arizona into Mexico so it loves hot sun and poor dry soils. Grow it in soil that’s even halfway decent and it gets leggy and flops over. (Zones 5-9)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.americanmeadows.com/indian-paintbrush-seeds?___store=default" style="color: #eb4102; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">Indian Paintbrush</a> (<em>Castilleja sp.</em>) is another much admired wildflower that seems to grow without care in its native environment that ranges throughout North America depending on the species. It derives its name from the striking orange-crimson spikes that appear in spring and resemble a brush dipped in paint. However, Indian Paintbrush can be difficult to grow from seed and establish in the garden. They are considered hemi-parasitic which means they need to grow in close proximity to other wildflowers and grasses. Indian Paintbrush produces roots that attach themselves to a range of plants that grow nearby to obtain some nourishment. Without these host plants, Indian Paintbrush declines and eventually dies. It is a challenge for even experienced gardeners but could surprise you if planted in the right conditions. (Zones 3-9)<br /><br /><strong>TO SEE HOW TO CHOOSE AND GROW WILDFLOWERS, AS WELL AS HOW TO CARE FOR A WILDFLOWER GARDEN,<a href="http://www.ngb.org/year_of/index.cfm?YOID=35" style="color: #eb4102; font-weight: normal; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">CLICK HERE</a> FOR THE COMPLETE ARTICLE ON THE NGB WEBSITE.</strong><br /><br /><strong>WHERE TO BUY WILDFLOWERS</strong><br />Gardeners have many choices when creating a wildflower garden. Local nurseries and garden centers sell both seeds and live plants. Retail, Internet and catalog seed companies sell wildflowers as individual species and mixes. Many seed companies also sell mixes for a variety of special uses—wildflowers for cutting, fragrance, partial shade, attracting butterflies or pollinating insects, and more.<br /><br />Digging plants from the wild is not recommended and might be illegal. State and federal laws protect some native plant species that are threatened or endangered. Collecting seed must be done carefully. Removing too much seed could reduce or destroy a wild plant population.<br /><br />The National Garden Bureau has <a href="http://www.ngb.org/member_info/shop.cfm" style="color: #eb4102; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">several members</a> that sell wildflowers including many North American native wildflowers. Choosing the right plants for your wildflower garden will create a beautiful landscape to be enjoyed for many years. </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f4f4f4; color: #505050; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; line-height: 21px;">The Gardening Guru </span><span style="background-color: #f4f4f4; color: #505050; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; line-height: 21px;">recognizes Janis Kieft of </span><a href="http://www.botanicalinterests.com/" style="background-color: #f4f4f4; color: #eb4102; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; line-height: 21px; word-wrap: break-word !important;" target="_self">Botanical Interests</a><span style="background-color: #f4f4f4; color: #505050; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS'; line-height: 21px;"> as the author of this fact sheet and Gene Milstein and Diane Wilson of Applewood Seed as expert contributors.</span>The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-89806170773096860702013-06-11T19:06:00.001-04:002013-06-11T19:06:42.829-04:00I'm Baaaaaack!After taking a few years off from The Gardening Guru to concentrate on my online gardening magazine, <a href="http://www.organicgardenstoday.com/">Organic Gardens Today</a>, I am happy to report that I am back to the blogging world. Stay tuned for updates and important gardening articles to keep you and your garden happy and healthy!The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-19907598084027802402011-05-11T13:10:00.001-04:002011-05-11T13:13:16.055-04:00How To Prune Your HydrangeaYou prize your hydrangeas for their beautiful flowers. You also want to make sure you prune them at the right time to encourage the stunning blooms every season. But do you wonder whether or when to prune them?<br /><br />“The first step is to determine the variety of your hydrangea,” said Tim Wood, new product manager at Proven Winners ColorChoice. “This is fairly easy to do. If your plant produces big pink or blue flowers, it is a Hydrangea macrophylla. If its flowers are round and white—or pink in the case of the new Invincibelle Spirit—the plant is a Hydrangea arborescens. Finally, if the plant has large, conical flowers, which are often white but may also be green or pink, you own a Hydrangea paniculata.”<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Bigleaf Hydrangeas</span><br /><br />If you have Hydrangea macrophylla, also known as Bigleaf Hydrangea, Wood says you can relax. This plant requires little more than a trimming and only immediately after flowering. You should never prune it in winter or spring, because it sets flower buds the year before and if you shear it back, then you will cut off all of summer’s flowers.<br /><br />Newer reblooming varieties such as the Let’s Dance series from Proven Winners ColorChoice will also bloom on the current season’s growth, but you still want to leave the plant intact through spring so you can enjoy early summer flowers.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Smooth Hydrangeas</span><br /><br />Hydrangea arborescens, also known as Smooth Hydrangea, are beloved for their adaptable nature and reliable blooms. You should prune it back in late winter or early spring. These hydrangeas bloom on “new wood”—the current season’s growth. Pruning them back at that time encourages new growth, which produces flowers. Spring pruning will also result in a fuller, stronger plant that’s less likely to flop under the weight of its abundant summer flowers. Cutting the stems back to one or two feet will leave a good framework to support the blooms.<br /><br />Today, there are two new “Annabelle” Hydrangea arborescens with stronger stems, so they won’t flop after being established. Invincibelle Spirit Hydrangea is the very first pink-flowered form of “Annabelle.” Invincibelle Spirit continues to produce new pink flowers right up until frost, providing a beautiful display across several seasons in your garden, from mid-summer to fall. Incrediball Hydrangea has the biggest flowers and the strongest stems of any of the “Annabelle” hydrangeas. Incrediball produces incredibly large white blooms as big as a basketball.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Hardy Hydrangeas</span><br /><br />Hydrangea paniculata, sometimes called Hardy Hydrangea, also blooms on new wood. You should prune it back in late winter or early spring. You can cut it back to the ground or, if you want slightly taller plants, cut it back to one to three feet. This is a great job for one of those early spring days when everything is still dormant but it’s so beautiful and warm you need to be in the garden.<br /><br />A new variety of Hydrangea paniculata won’t require as much pruning to keep it smaller. The new Little Lime Hydrangea boasts the same colors and benefits of the famous “Limelight” Hydrangea though only reaching three to five feet fully grown. At one-third the size of other hardy hydrangeas, it fits well into practically any landscape. Little Lime produces bright cone-shaped lime-green flowers, later turning into pink, from mid-summer to frost.<br /><br />Fortunately, even if you make a mistake and prune at the wrong time of year, these plants will forgive you. You may not have flowers for a season but, with proper timing, you’ll see them the following year. Just remember to start by correctly identifying which kind of hydrangea you have. With just a little work, you’ll get beautiful flowers from your hydrangeas year after year.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-27835397810695041772011-04-06T21:35:00.001-04:002011-04-06T21:41:17.417-04:00Gardening in Small Spaces<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2L_t8xuEjN3oc05XiTGxZ9xWWaEPa-7PH5sdGHSTilR3BxPU1C4yf8KKR2Rs7WfHDMXyLY0nEaZ1jkZBbEbOv4uylUv2mcyffMiQtHPqzkgnqiinRATia3E4seHuEFw1km8wxQ5O7WSI/s1600/wtGS020018.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 83px; height: 120px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2L_t8xuEjN3oc05XiTGxZ9xWWaEPa-7PH5sdGHSTilR3BxPU1C4yf8KKR2Rs7WfHDMXyLY0nEaZ1jkZBbEbOv4uylUv2mcyffMiQtHPqzkgnqiinRATia3E4seHuEFw1km8wxQ5O7WSI/s320/wtGS020018.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592650516409709842" /></a><br /><br />Having a big garden doesn’t mean that you have a great garden. I have seen many large gardens that are so cluttered with plant material, it makes you feel like you are in a confined space. On the other hand, I have seen balcony gardens tastefully planted, giving the illusion of space in a well defined area. In many cases, more is not always better, especially if time is a constraint. Plants and containers that are properly placed in a small space will do more to accentuate the area, giving the illusion of open expanses. With a balcony, terrace or small patio, getting the most out of the space depends on good design and proper planting. If you are limited with time, a low maintenance approach will probably serve your needs better. Increasing the hardscape materials such as water features, incorporating low maintenance plants and ground covers, will make your limited time in your small garden more enjoyable. If you are an avid plant collector, your direction should be of small, rock garden plants that will be size proportionate to your space. Either way, gardening needs to be an enjoyable past time, not a chore that needs to be taken care of on a weekly basis.<br /><br />Considerations<br /><br />When planning your garden, be it small or large, you need to do your homework. All too often we fall into the trap of impulse buying at our local garden or home center, and we come home scratching our heads as to where to plant our flowering beauty. We end up planting our new arrival in a location that is not optimum for the plant, and it ends up in the garbage, dashing our hopes for a spectacular garden. Allot some time periods during a day to see what conditions are in your garden. Is there sun, shade or both, dependent on the time of day? When sitting in your garden, notice not only the space you are in, but also the space surrounding the garden. Is there an air conditioning unit that takes away from your serenity? Is your neighbor’s property unappealing? Sit down and make a list of all these items, then hit the web or your local library to do some research. Successful gardening is more about putting the right plant in the right place than some outlandish gardening philosophy. The most common mistake I have seen in home landscapes is that they have plants that have outgrown the area they were originally planted. A good example is the over planted weeping cherry tree planted within ten feet of the corner of a house. Within five years the tree needs to be removed - a waste of time and money. <br /><br />Styles<br /><br />No matter the size of your garden, your taste will influence the design of the garden. There are two major categories, formal and informal. Formal incorporates clean, crisp straight lines and has a sense of order. Gardens such as knot gardens, formal herb gardens, and rose gardens fall into this category. The most well known informal garden is the cottage garden, where the plants are not planted in strict rows, but are instead planted in flowing movements through the garden. This type can also include gardens such as wildlife, woodland and bright beds and borders. No matter what the style of garden you choose, make sure you choose it for yourself. Having a garden that reflects your tastes will only increase your interest and increase your time spent out in the garden. <br /><br />Focal points<br /><br />Focal points for the garden are an essential part of the design, no matter what the size of the garden. They can focus your eyes from a less appealing part of your garden to a more favorable one. Examples of focal points include birdbaths, sundials, statues and plants that are more vertical than those surrounding it. An arch or entranceway to your garden is the focal point, telling you where to enter and exit. Last but not least, water features such as small fountains or ponds can be considered double focal points; not only do they draw your eyes, but also your ears with the sound of running water.<br /><br />With these few basic ideas concerning gardening in small spaces, you can begin the process of sculpting a boring or bland space into one of enjoyment and pride.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-45233519066111715982011-03-31T07:27:00.003-04:002011-03-31T07:33:06.300-04:00My new online gardening magazine<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8JIpynTILQ612LwdbtHtk_Q8z2jlDvPN40bW98CXnI0EOQwoxQuL3_Tl5TNwKvgbblMjq814yNpjRwTInvKlkNPVg0imDfkgyGylAH5fQJW60euq0NJbTIN0SFbHTRWXMYc2NV0XeX0/s1600/OGT+SPRING+2011+Cover.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 247px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5590204842225856194" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8JIpynTILQ612LwdbtHtk_Q8z2jlDvPN40bW98CXnI0EOQwoxQuL3_Tl5TNwKvgbblMjq814yNpjRwTInvKlkNPVg0imDfkgyGylAH5fQJW60euq0NJbTIN0SFbHTRWXMYc2NV0XeX0/s320/OGT+SPRING+2011+Cover.jpg" /></a> Please look at my new organic gardening online magazine, <a href="http://www.organicgardenstoday.com">Organic Gardens Today</a>. Let me know what you think, and if you like it, make sure you share it with your friends and family. Thank you in advance! DaveThe Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-79287162144111631962011-02-21T22:42:00.001-05:002011-02-21T22:44:30.366-05:00FORCING SHRUBS FOR INTERIOR COLOR<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj398OLBdkCt9sKYo5kCX4XFFGYR3YqYDv3eqwKCRato2feEk0msf4hw9mQ7GrKv2739shd8_PWhKjYgwhOLGcUdcpe1iRitV9xRAVgba91UCE20cPPChWNd4eYWSmRW019oOfQLEljf9Y/s1600/forsythia.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj398OLBdkCt9sKYo5kCX4XFFGYR3YqYDv3eqwKCRato2feEk0msf4hw9mQ7GrKv2739shd8_PWhKjYgwhOLGcUdcpe1iRitV9xRAVgba91UCE20cPPChWNd4eYWSmRW019oOfQLEljf9Y/s320/forsythia.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5576354687626152642" /></a><br /><br /> Here in the Northeast we are expecting yet another snow storm, albeit a small one (1 to 3 inches). This winter has been a very contentious one, with more snow than I can remember in my life time of winters. In January we had snow storm after snow storm, and it comes to the point of looking up to the sky and yelling “Okay, I give up. Please let me see the green grass or the early flowers of spring bulbs!” As depressing as this winter has been, there is a surefire way of bringing some color into your life, and that is by forcing some of the early flowering shrubs into bloom in your home.<br /><br /><br /><br /> This is a great time to take cuttings from your shrubs for two reasons: 1) You can see the branching habit of the shrub without being blocked by the leaves and 2) It gets you out of the house, moving around and taking a visual inventory of your plantings. Begin by looking for the dreaded three “D’s” of pruning: Dead, Diseased and Damaged. Unfortunately these first removals are not the ones you want to bring inside for forcing, but when removed, you will have a clearer picture of what can be removed for forcing without leaving the plant lop-sided or with a large hole in it. The length of the pruning cut should be 1 1/3 times the length you are looking to use. Let’s say you have a 12 inch tall vase and you want the stems to stand another 12 inches above the top of the vase. The length of the branch should be around 32 inches, and of course this is not a tape measure deal, but an eye measurement. Even though we are taking cuttings for indoor bloom, keep in mind that your pruning cut should be on an angle just above another bud that faces away from the center of the plant, for the branch to heal properly.<br /> Gather your stems and bring them inside for a quick bath. Remember all of those cold, windy days when you didn’t even want to go outside? They took their toll on the bark of the plants, drying them out. Fill your bathtub with tepid water and allow the stems to lay submersed in the water for 2 to 3 hours. This will help hydrate the stems and buds and to make the stems think that spring has finally arrived. Remove them from the water and give them a new fresh cut approximately 2 inches above your original pruning cut and place them into a bucket or container with no more than 3 to 4 inches of water in it. Store the container of cuttings in your basement or somewhere with limited light exposure. You will need to check the water on a regular basis for level and to make sure the water does not turn green. Depending on the type of plant you have chosen and the closer to spring you are, the cuttings will take anywhere from 1 week to 6 weeks for the buds to swell to the point of blossoming. Patience is a virtue with forcing – the more patient you are, the fuller, more developed the flowers will be. During this time you will need to give the stems new fresh cuts, again on an angle, to help the flow of water through the stem. When the time comes to bring them into your living area, do not place them in direct sunlight or on a radiator or warm surface, as this will shorten the bloom period. Remove any growth or buds that will be at or below the water level to prevent moldy water. Finally, don’t worry about adding a fancy cut flower preservative to the water. Keeping the water fresh and not allowing the water to run out are the two reasons why cut flowers die quickly. If you feel you must add something to the water, mix in a children’s aspirin in the water and you will receive the same effect.<br />Plant Listing<br />This list comprises many of the common shrubs that lend themselves for forcing. I have grouped them by their “basement” time, or time from cutting to bloom, and included their flower color.<br />1 to 2 WEEKS<br />Forsythia (yellow), Honeysuckle (pink or white), Bridal Wreath Spirea (white), Cornelian Dogwood (yellow), Pussy Willow (buff), Shadblow (white), Spicebush (yellow) and Witchhazel (yellow).<br />3 to 4 WEEKS<br />Flowering Almond (pink), Flower Quince (red or orange), Mockorange (white)<br />4+ WEEKS<br />Beauty Bush (pink), Deutzia (white), Redtwig Dogwood (white)<br /><br />Remember the larger the flower bud (plants such as lilacs, wisteria, etc), the longer it will take for the flower to develop, and 9 times out of 10 the flowers will not be as big and beautiful as if they were left on the plant and allowed to develop naturally.<br />Lastly some of these cuttings will create roots. If you want to create new plants, remove the cuttings from the water when the roots are no more than ¾ of an inch long. Plant them in a soilless potting mix and return to the unheated basement. When the weather begins to change to spring, slowly acclimate the new plants to outside conditions by placing them in a protected, limited light area during the days and return them to the basement at night. After a weeks’ time, they will be ready to remain outside and start developing real roots.<br />Try this easy way to bring color in your home – you won’t regret it!The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-88833795358447872992011-02-05T11:02:00.002-05:002011-02-05T12:24:56.665-05:00WINTER GARDENING WITH KIDSIn the summer months, it's sometimes hard to keep kids out of the garden, especially if you've marked off an area just for them to grow their own vegetables and flowers. But what about winter, when chilly temperatures force you inside? What can you do to keep your children interested in gardening? The answer is "plenty!" Here are some ideas to get you started thinking about indoor gardening projects for your family, scout troop, or other youth group. I'm sure you'll come up with others. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Windowsill gardens</span>. <br />Try cultivating a windowsill garden when the snowdrifts keep your kids inside. All you need is a sunny spot and a few containers of soil. Herbs are an excellent choice for windowsill gardens. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Peculiar plants.</span> <br />What kid wouldn't be fascinated by an insect-eating plant? Many garden centers sell Venus flytraps in their houseplant section. Then visit your library or search the Internet for more information on the natural habitat and growth habits of this unusual plant.<br /> <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Watch seeds sprout.</span> <br />Line a glass jar with a damp paper towel and insert several zucchini seeds between the glass and the towel. Place a lid on the jar, leave it on the kitchen counter, and check the paper every day to make sure it's still moist. Seeds should sprout in a few days. Or try bush beans instead of zucchini. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Read a book.</span> <br />Books like Peter Rabbit or The Secret Garden can spark your child's interest in gardening. Ask your local librarian or bookstore owner for other suggestions.<br /> <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Decorate while you wait.</span> <br />Let kids indulge their natural creativity by painting inexpensive terra cotta pots to use next spring, for repotting houseplants this winter, or for birthday and thank you gifts. Kid-safe, durable paints can be purchased at most craft shops. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Get a jump on spring.</span> <br />Plan a visit to your local garden center to buy seeds. Or let your child help select varieties from the seed catalogs. Then start seeds indoors to plant outside after the last frost. Ask the experts at your garden center or check your favorite gardening book to determine when to start seeds. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Worm farm.</span> <br />Line a large cardboard box with a garbage bag. Fill it with soil, organic matter, and a few worms. Keep it shady and moist, but not too wet. Add kitchen scraps (vegetables only!) Worms will help teach your kids about the interdependence of plants and organisms as they turn vegetable kitchen scraps into valuable compost.<br /> <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Garden crafts.</span> <br />There are several projects you can try with your kids, depending on their age and interest, such as hand-painted plant markers or homemade whirligigs to put between rows to frighten off birds. Your local craft store should have all the supplies you need. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Terrariums.</span> <br />Carefully place some soil and a few mosses and plants (with roots) inside a clean mayonnaise jar. Keep your indoor garden moist with a plant mister, and cover the opening with clear plastic wrap. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Feed the birds.</span> <br />Stock up on birdseed and suet at your local garden center, and feed the birds this winter. Have your child keep a record of all the species of birds that come to the feeder and what date each first was spotted. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Pot People.</span> <br />Draw or paint faces on small clay pots, and then fill with soil. Plant grass seed, water, and watch the "hair" grow (aka the Chia Pet technique). <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Build a birdhouse.</span> <br />Birdhouse kits and plans are available at most garden centers and craft shops. This is a great activity for a cold winter's night. <br /><br />The sooner we can get our children interested in gardening and the natural world around them, the better the earth’s future will be. All it takes is one activity with a child to get them hooked, and it all started with a lima bean seed for me in elementary school. Who would’ve known?The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-10805283294822886252010-12-05T12:32:00.000-05:002010-12-05T12:33:22.032-05:00CHRISTMAS CACTUS – A HOLIDAY FAVORITECHRISTMAS CACTUS – A HOLIDAY FAVORITE<br /><br />The brightly colored flowers of the Christmas cactus instantly bring warmth during the chilling winter season. When the holiday season is over, it is resting time for the Christmas cactus. Allow it the rest it deserves and prepare it for the next holiday season. These plants are relatively maintenance free, but once you learn its few requirements, you will have a live holiday plant that can be passed down from generation to generation.<br /><br />Requirements<br /><br />This plant is tropical in nature and belongs to the zygo-cactus family. Though the name suggests that it originates from the cactus family, its environmental requirements are quite different from the desert cactus. The Christmas cactus is an epiphyte that is a native to Central and South America and it naturally grows in the crook of tree trunks and branches. The organic matter trapped in the cervices of trees provides the required moisture for the growth of the cactus. <br /><br />Hybridizers have come up with new Christmas cactus varieties, which has resulted in the introduction of three cacti, which are thanksgiving, Easter and Christmas cactus. Care of Christmas cactus has to be taken to ensure that we enjoy the blooms for a long time. <br /><br />For the Christmas cactus to grow and flourish, optimal growing conditions must be provided. Though the cactus performs well under average home conditions with moderate care, there are various factors that can deter the plant from blooming. <br /><br />Requirements<br />1. Water: Being succulent in nature, this plant stores a reasonable amount of water in its leaves. Over watering can shun the growth of the Christmas cactus. The best way to see whether the plant needs watering is to use your finger: If it feels dry, water. If it feels moist, wait a day and check again. Try to avoid a weekly or calendar watering schedule, since you may be watering an already over-watered plant. When watering, set the plant in your kitchen sink and use your spray attachment and wash the leaves while watering the soil. A tepid water temperature will avoid shocking the plant with either too cold or too warm water. Allow the plant to drain completely. If the plant is allowed to sit in the drained water or in a tray for too long (I am talking days, not minutes), the roots tend to decay. During the summer season, ensure that the cactus is watered every 2-3 days, while in the winter months, the need is less and so is water.<br />2. Light: If the leaves of the cactus have turned red, it simply means that it has been exposed to direct sunlight. The Christmas cactus requires indirect bright sunlight. To promote blooming during the fall, the plant needs less sunlight and 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness. In New Jersey I move the cactus outside in spring once the danger of frost has passed, then leave it outside just before the first frost, and under a protected over hang. <br />3. Temperature: The optimum temperature for growth is between 60 to 70°C. Average to high humidity creates the most favorable conditions. The soil moisture levels can be attained by placing the pot in a tray filled with water and pebbles, making sure that the water level does not reach the bottom of the pot.<br />4. Fertilizer: Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer (I prefer Schultz 10-15-10 fertilizer + micronutrients, which can be found in most supermarkets and home centers) at half the rate it suggests every 2-3 weeks in the winter. Over use of the fertilizer can burn the roots of the cactus, and remember that during the winter months, the plants are actively growing less than the spring/summer/fall months.<br /><br />To promote the Christmas cactus to branch out, it is important to prune it. Remove some sections of the stem by using either your fingers or a sharp knife in the spring. To propagate, push the cut sections from your pruning into a 3 inch pot that contains the same soil as the parent cactus. A well drained soil such as an African Violet mix will be perfect. Remember that these are not desert cacti, and potting them into a sandy soil will not work. Ensure that the cut sections have 2-3 joined segments, and push the first section into the soil. The roots will develop in 4-6 weeks.<br /><br />My Christmas cactus has been a guaranteed bloomer and show stopper every year, and you can have the same success with this maintenance free holiday favorite.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-40267095571325150692010-11-30T21:31:00.000-05:002010-11-30T21:32:21.030-05:00Christmas Tree TipsYou can check the tree for freshness by running your hands from the inside of the tree to the outside, lightly gripping the branch. You will have needles dropping, but there should not be a handful. You have to keep in mind that most Christmas trees, unless purchased at a cut-your-own farm, will have been cut in the beginning to middle of November. They are then kept in cold storage until delivery time to the garden center or corner lot. Also “bounce” the tree on the ground and see how many needles fall. There will be some, because even evergreens lose their older needles which are located towards the inside of the tree. Once you have determined that the tree is fresh, you can move onto tree types.<br /><br />Pines are the Christmas tree grower’s best plant; they grow rapidly, are ready for sale in a short period of time, and can grow in a wide range of climates and soil types. On the other hand, they do need heavy annual shearing for them to attain that “Christmas Tree” look. With all of this shearing, the stem can be quite thick compared to the size of the tree, so check your tree stand for diameter size before purchasing. The two common pines found at tree lots are Scotch and white pine. Most Scotch pines tend to yellow for the winter, and to compensate the growers will spray a colorant on these trees to make them look greener. Scotch pines also suffer from crooked stems, so always look at the bottom of the tree as well as the top on this type. With it being sheared, this tree is good for a “lights only” display as well as most pines. There are no real spaces for ornaments. White pine is very important to the lumber industry as well as the Christmas tree industry. It is mostly grown in the mid-Atlantic states, and buyers admire it for the soft green color and woodsy fragrance. <br />. <br />Firs are the most popular type of tree grown for Christmas. They have an attractive, deep green color and conical shape and have needles that are flatter and softer in texture. In general, they are the longest lasting tree in terms of needle retention and have the most fragrance. To many on the east coast, a balsam fir is the only Christmas tree. It is naturally cone-shaped with needles that are rich green on top and silvery white underneath. Douglas firs are not a true fir, but do resemble the fir family. They have a blue-green color, excellent needle retention, but be wary of split trunks. I have seen hundreds of Douglas firs that have a split trunk 1 foot from the bottom, which will only complicate the cutting for the stand. Frasier fir needles are short and hug the stem and its growth habit is denser than balsam. This is my personal favorite. Noble fir is an attractive tree which only grows in the Northwest. This fir is the best with needle retention, but the problem arises that it is a slow grower, so not only will you pay more for this tree, but the trunk will be quite large. <br /><br />Spruces have stiff square needles, rough bark, strong branches which make it perfect for heavy ornaments. On the other hand, it is often too prickly for children to decorate and can drop needles quite quickly. Spruces need to be watered frequently, so get a large capacity tree stand. Blue spruces are known for its landscape use as well as a Christmas tree. White spruce is a nice tree for its green color, but again a heavy needle dropper when watering is not kept up.<br /> <br />There are many new varieties being grown today, and it is really up to your own personal choice. After selecting your tree, only give the tree a fresh cut just before you are going to bring it inside. Make sure you have a large enough stand for the tree. Sometimes it is better to have one too big than too small, for the larger one will hold more water and cut down your watering times. I have also heard to use aspirin, tree fresh and other assorted chemicals to help preserve the tree. The simple, most effective way to keep your tree fresh is to make sure to never let it run out of water...plain and simple. Good luck and have a safe and happy holiday season!The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-82215779192436870672010-11-24T21:00:00.000-05:002010-11-24T21:03:56.923-05:00Gardening is for the BirdsEven though November is a very busy month as we put our gardens to “sleep” for the winter, now is the time to think of our fine feathered friends who will either pass through on their way south or stay through the winter on our properties. Birds are very beneficial in controlling insects in the garden, and now is the time to encourage them to put your garden on their map.<br /><br />Setting up a new bird feeding station can be done at any time during the year. Birds are found at birdfeeders virtually at all times of the year, all over the country, though fall is a perfect time to begin feeding the birds. In fall, bird populations and activities are at its peak. Some birds will be stocking up for their long migrations while other birds that will be wintering in your area will scout out for reliable food sources. <br /> <br />Once birds find a food source, water and shelter for the winter season, they will stay in that territory. The birds will most likely seek other food sources in nearby fields or wood areas, but they will always come back to the feeders that first attracted them. Once you set up a bird feeder, continue feeding the birds until spring when natural food sources become abundant again. Personally I fill my feeders regularly from fall to spring, then let the birds find the insects during the growing year, keeping my plants insect free.<br /><br />The biggest complaint I have heard from people is that bird feeders can be messy, with excess seeds and shells littering the ground around the feeder. During the winter, place an old piece of carpet around the base of the feeder to prevent the accumulation of seed and remove it first thing in spring. If you feed during the growing season, there are many “no waste” seed blends on the market that will reduce the mess while keeping the birds happy. <br /><br />SEEDS<br />Birds will eat a variety of foods during the winter including seeds. Sunflower seed is the most popular seed offered in bird feeders and are eagerly eaten by most large birds at feeders. Millet seed is the best year-round seed for smaller birds. Thistle seed is a good choice of seed for goldfinches. Try to avoid cheap mixes with fillers such as buckwheat. The higher the quality of the seed, the more likely the birds will be happy and healthy.<br /> <br />GRIT<br />Grit is needed by birds to help grind up food in their gizzard. In areas of the country where winter provides a complete snow-covered landscape, natural forms of grit are hard to find. In these areas of the country, offer grit in the form of finely crushed eggshells. <br /><br />FAT<br />In the winter, many birds depend on a high-energy diet. Beef suet is inexpensive and well liked by the birds. Suet can be offered to birds in specialized suet feeders, or on platform / table feeders. Mesh or onion bags also make a great suet feeder. Also there are many varieties of suet on the market today, including berry, peanut, corn, etc. <br /><br />BREAD<br />Kitchen scraps of breads are well liked by birds. White bread alone should not be the only food source for birds since it has no nutritional value (all parents should know this by now). Remove any uneaten bread from the ground to prevent it from spoiling or attracting unwanted animals. <br /><br />There is not a better picture in the world than a cardinal standing next to a feeder when the snow is on the ground. When everything in the landscape is covered in white, having a colorful show of birds in your garden can brighten even the longest winter day.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-82933462925318486882010-11-02T19:57:00.001-04:002010-11-02T19:58:34.992-04:00A Few Final Tasks around the GardenNovember is the time of year when all gardeners get a little melancholy. Instead of looking forward to new blooms and green growth, it is time to get the gardens ready for its’ winter nap. The key is to remember that the plants in our garden are only “sleeping”, that is they are still alive and well. During the winter, water and nutrients are still running throughout the entire plant, including deciduous plants. In evergreens, such as rhododendrons and azaleas, this process continues quicker than in deciduous plants, as the leaves transpire, or give off water vapor, through the leaf's pores (stomata). The problem arises when the roots cannot supply enough moisture to compensate what is lost through the leaf’s pores. In rhododendrons, the leaves will roll up to reduce the surface area, slowing down the evaporation through the leaves. We can also help prevent moisture loss in evergreens by applying and anti-desiccant, such as “Wilt-Pruf”. One of the most common questions in spring is why are my rhododendron leaves brown at the edges? The reason is winter burn, caused by excessive transpiration in the winter. A simple application of “Wilt-Pruf” before the arrival of winter (days with a temperature higher than 50 degree) will help eliminate winter burn.<br /><br />Garden cleanliness is extremely important at this time of year. Most diseases can over winter in the soil of your garden, emerging in spring with the new growth of your plants. A good example is black spot and powdery mildew. These diseases will over winter on leaves that have fallen to the ground. When the spring rains come, the raindrops will “bounce” the spores up onto the leaves, starting the cycle for yet another year. The best way to stop a fungus or disease is to prevent it. Make sure that all of your garden debris is picked up. If you have a compost pile, do not put these leaves into the compost – the disease will over winter in your compost and resurface next year. Most municipalities have a leaf collection service or a disposal site for fall refuse, and this is where diseased material should go.<br /><br />Once the garden has gone dormant (usually the early part of December), now is the time I like to apply an organic fertilizer to every plant on my property. I apply bone meal for my garden beds. This organic fertilizer will not burn, nor will it create excessive new growth if we have a warm spell. What it will do is work its’ way into the soil, and be available first thing in spring to help green up your garden. The same is true for your lawn. Apply a 10-6-4 general-purpose fertilizer to your lawn once the ground freezes. If your lawn needs lime to help raise the pH, now is the time to do that as well. You may feel silly bundled up in your winter gear applying lawn fertilizer, but your lawn will have the nutrients it needs first thing in spring, greening up sooner than any one of your neighbor’s lawns, making you the King (or Queen) of your neighborhood!<br /><br />Clean and oil your garden tools for winter storage. Place some sand and some oil in a large bucket, then slide your garden tools in and out of the sand. This will do an excellent job of cleaning them, as well as applying a light coat of oil to prevent rusting. This is also a good month to restock any tools that have seen better days, while the prices are lower. <br /><br />Lastly, make sure that your power equipment is clean of any plant debris, and gas drained from the tank. Run the equipment after emptying the gas tank to make sure the gasoline is completely out of the carburetor and fuel lines. Clogged fuel lines or gummed up carburetors are the biggest problem when trying to start your engine in spring. Running the equipment until it runs out of gas will eliminate this problem next spring. <br /><br />These easy tips will help you enjoy the flower show next spring without all of the work.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-74336595522153441082010-08-18T12:11:00.003-04:002010-08-18T13:42:14.171-04:00It's time to reap what you have sown.....August is the time to sit back and enjoy what you have created. Even though the dog days of summer have gone (I should do a whole blog post on the true meaning of the dog days of summer), this time of the gardening year allows us a short time of pleasure before our fall work begins, so get out there and enjoy!<br /><br />VEGETABLE GARDENS<br /><br />Our vegetable gardens are in full tilt right now. Anyone from New Jersey knows that you just can't beat the taste of a Jersey tomato, grown in your own back yard. My father's favorite summer sandwich was a freshly picked tomato from the garden, sliced and put between two slices of bread with a dab of Miracle Whip (and the tradition has carried down through the gene pool). Vegetable plants are in full production right now, so peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers and other plants will probably give you more vegetables than you know what to do with. Please, please remember your local food bank. With the economy in the toilet, food banks are being used more than ever, and fresh produce is gratefully accepted. Since 1995, American gardeners have donated over 14 million pounds of herbs and vegetables to feed the hungry in our local neighborhoods and communities. For more information on <span style="font-weight:bold;">Plant A Row<span style="font-style:italic;"></span></span>, is a part of the Garden Writers Association, of which I am a member, go to http://www.gardenwriters.org/gwa.php?p=par/index.html for ways you can help. Even if your garden doesn't overflow with fruits and vegetables, you can help support the cause with a donation. <br /><br />Landscapes<br /><br />Now is also the time to grab a notebook, walk your property, and take note of your landscape plantings. Look at the plantings as a "whole", meaning take notice of what combination of plants that work well together and what ones don't work well. Remember that gardening is a learning experience, and not everything will work well in your specific conditions, even though it may work well in a book or TV show. It is okay, trust me. Also bring your camera and document with pictures your garden, so when the winter comes, you can look at these pictures and formulate your plan for the next growing season.<br /><br />Flowers<br /><br />While you are walking, notice the beauty of the flowers around your property. When was the last time you looked closely at a certain flower, taking note of each individual characteristic? One of my favorite flowers (I have plenty) is the flower of the Buckeye tree (Aesculus glabra).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8R0I68l0r5WAklTERbFs6JxrJh2JqvKMd7Do6qpN8qTH3wdfYpTXioGk24Zwiwamj9cSZDOtts4OUrdp6HasMLlRaAslcmfIwKmo-4MVRd_QR5qamBbsLy8cUdN6i2xQ_LcK5_7rBD5k/s1600/Buckeye_Tree_in_Bloom-305x405.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 241px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8R0I68l0r5WAklTERbFs6JxrJh2JqvKMd7Do6qpN8qTH3wdfYpTXioGk24Zwiwamj9cSZDOtts4OUrdp6HasMLlRaAslcmfIwKmo-4MVRd_QR5qamBbsLy8cUdN6i2xQ_LcK5_7rBD5k/s320/Buckeye_Tree_in_Bloom-305x405.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506801084905240146" /></a><br /><br />When you look up close at the flower, it is almost orchid-like and quite beautiful. When you drive by, you just see a clump of pinkish-red flowers on a tree. Sad part is I couldn't find an up close picture of the individual flower, but plenty of the clump or flowers in bloom on the tree. "Take time to stop and smell the roses" can also be retold as "Take time to stop and notice the individual beauty of the flowers". Do both at this time of year and appreciate what you have accomplished this year, Be happy, even if there are more challenges in your garden than you expected when spring came and look at them as opportunities for the garden next year.<br /><br />Enjoy!!!!!<br /><br />DaveThe Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-52657325353531995762010-06-06T09:48:00.001-04:002010-06-06T09:48:40.342-04:00Preparing for summer stressStress is a normal condition for landscape plants. While plants can tolerate considerable stress, they may be weakened and made susceptible to attack by insects and diseases. A little TLC during the summer months will go a long way toward keeping trees, shrubs and perennials healthy and vigorous during the heat, drought and humidity of a typical summer.<br /><br />The first and most important step in plant stress prevention is planting the right plant in the right place. Part of a good landscape plan is selection of plants suited to the various micro-environments of the home grounds. While a juniper will thrive in a hot, dry corner, a dogwood or Japanese maple planted nearby will probably show leaf scorch most years. But planting the juniper in a shady or poorly drained site is a waste of time. Even azaleas will grow poorly in very dense shade. Pruning up a few of the lower branches on over-story trees to provide a few hours of morning sun often dramatically improves the performance of light-starved plants.<br /><br />When planting container grown trees and shrubs, tease the roots away from the root ball and spread them out in the planting hole. Teasing the roots is much different than taking out a knife and making vertical slices through the roots. Multiple vertical slices may sever up to 50% of the root system, setting the plant up for drought stress when hot weather comes. Root watering crystals (such as Agrosoke) can be a tremendous benefit when added at planting time. These crystals absorb moisture from the soil, but release it back into the soil between watering.<br /><br />When planting trees with a soil ball (balled and burlapped), make sure that the burlap is not exposed to the air where it will wick water from the ball. Personally I like to remove the burlap entirely, once the plant is in the hole. Do not over-fertilize at planting time. This may stimulate excessive shoot growth at the expense of root growth, making the plant less drought tolerant. Mulching is essential for stress avoidance. It retains soil moisture, keeps the soil cool and eliminates competition from turf and weeds for moisture and nutrients. Compost makes excellent mulch since it provides a source of slow release nutrients, thereby promoting root growth. When mulching, do not pile the mulch around the base of the trunk (aka The Jersey Volcano). This will suffocate the plant, severely decreasing its lifespan. Instead, make a saucer with the mulch, building it up as you get to the edge of your planting area. This will allow water to drain directly to the root system where it is need most.<br /><br />Don't hole up in the air-conditioned house during the hot summer and abandon your landscape. Check for signs of stress during the heat of the day. Even plants that wilt severely during mid-afternoon can recover by the following morning with a little TLC. But a few days of severe wilting can weaken a plant and interfere with fall root growth and cold hardiness development.<br /><br />Other signs of summer stress include pale leaves and scorched leaf margins. These generally result from high leaf temperature and can occur even when soil moisture is seemingly sufficient. Careful watering, mulching and protection of Japanese maples and dogwoods from wind and afternoon sun will reduce the incidence of leaf scorch. Watch lilacs and dogwoods for powdery mildew in late summer. This can weaken plants as they head into winter, but can be prevented with a monthly application of Wilt-Pruf (an anti-dessicant that is normally used in the winter to prevent winter burn on evergreen leaves).<br /><br />In general, the "supplement rainfall to make one-inch-per-week" rule for watering works well to prevent stress. Run a drip irrigation system with 1 gallon per hour emitters for an hour. Also stay away from overhead sprinklers – most of the water will evaporate before getting to the root zone, and is a waste of one of our precious resources. Although I would like to say we would have adequate moisture throughout the summer, our recent history proves differently.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-57790006655935550522010-05-09T20:16:00.000-04:002010-05-09T20:18:24.877-04:00Why Plants Fail to BloomFlowering plants that don't bloom as promised can be a big disappointment in your garden. Reasons for lack of blooming are as diverse as the palette of plants from which to choose, but a little detective work can usually pinpoint the trouble. The most common factors associated with blooming, or lack thereof, include light, plant age, nutrition, extreme temperatures and improper pruning.<br /><br />Many woody plants must reach a certain age before they are mature enough to produce flowers. Fruit trees, such as apples and pears, can require as many as five or six years to become fruitful. Gingko trees can take up to 15 years to bloom (which could be a good thing!). The most common question I am asked is “Why doesn’t my wisteria bloom?” and the reason is wisteria can take anywhere from 7 to 10 years to bloom, so patience is a must. Add a stressful environment (drought, excessive moisture, etc) to a juvenile plant, and flowering may be delayed even further.<br /><br />Plants that are old enough to flower, or have done so in the past, may quit doing so for a variety of reasons. Flowering may be sparse or completely absent when a plant is under stress, so be sure the plant is positioned in an appropriate location for that particular species. For example, some plants flower best in full sun; others may prefer the cooler conditions found in the shade. Some plants, such as peonies, will flower sparsely or not at all when grown in shade. Similarly, shade-loving plants, such as begonias, will not bloom well in full sun. In gardens where other trees and shrubs are nearby, light conditions can change drastically over time as landscape plants cast more shade, or removal of a large plant suddenly leaves formerly shaded plants exposed.<br /><br />Some plants, such as chrysanthemums and poinsettias, flower in response to short day lengths, or more accurately, long nights. If the plants don't receive the appropriate break from light, their season of bloom will be delayed indefinitely.<br /><br />Overfeeding plants with nitrogen can encourage them to produce lush foliage at the expense of blossoms. A lack of nutrients, particularly nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, also may delay flowering. Stick with a balanced, low-analysis fertilizer, such as 5-10-5 or 10-6-4, to apply adequate nutrition without overdoing.<br /><br />Some gardeners unknowingly remove flower potential from their plants by pruning at the wrong time of year. Landscape plants that bloom in early spring set their flower buds in autumn on last year's growth. If you prune these plants in late winter, you'll also be removing many or all of the flower buds. The rule of thumb is to prune spring-flowering shrubs and vines after blooms have faded.<br /><br />Mother Nature can deal a blow to buds with extreme low winter temperatures or late frosts in spring after growth has begun. Though this past winter was relatively mild, we did have some spring cool-downs at night. And some plants may be winter hardy, but their flower buds are routinely killed, even by normal spring weather. <br /><br />So if you have landscape plants that are not performing up to par, do your homework to find the appropriate requirements, and plan to replace the "duds" with plants that are better adapted to your growing conditions. Try moving the “duds” to other areas of your property with different soil, light and moisture conditions. You may be pleasantly surprised! Remember to plant the right plant in the right place. This rule of thumb, as simply as it may seem, is one of the most important.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-4507053986182581572010-04-21T17:00:00.001-04:002010-04-21T17:00:51.006-04:00Plant A Healing GardenHere's an idea that's growing in popularity: Plant a garden to help you or someone you care about heal physically, spiritually or emotionally. <br /><br />For most of history, gardens have had a strong relationship to health and healing. Today, people use healing gardens to restore the body, spirit and mind. Gardens create a sense of calm, balance, hope and inspiration, which greatly improve the recovery process. A healing garden is an opportunity to observe and be a part of the life cycle, giving a sense of purpose and fulfillment. Gardens offer fresh air, exercise and sunlight, important for reducing stress, anxiety and depression. <br /><br />That's why hospitals, nursing homes, hospices and cancer-support centers across the nation use healing gardens for their patients. In fact, doctors at the Jupiter Medical Center in Florida discovered that patients who had a view of the healing garden from their rooms took less pain medication and had shorter hospital stays than those without such a view. <br /><br />Healing gardens are often used to help women in their battles against breast cancer. That's important, since the National Cancer Institute estimates that one in eight women will be diagnosed with breast cancer at some point during her lifetime. <br /><br />When planting a home healing garden, consider the following to maximize its healing qualities: <br /><br />• Overall layout: Include places to sit and reflect, pray, meditate or relax, such as a wooden swing. Picture what calms or inspires you and include these elements and items. A small pond, garden art, wind chimes, even interesting rocks might add to your garden's tranquility. Enclose it with shrubs or fencing to create a secluded retreat and include paths for walking.<br /><br />• Aromatic plants: Sweet-smelling plants can enhance the relaxing atmosphere. Plant herbs such as basil, rosemary, sage, lemon thyme or lavender. Surround your garden with scented trees, such as pine and eucalyptus, to create shade and shelter. A new compact, reblooming lilac, called Bloomerang, has clusters of purple-pink, sweet-scented flowers, making it excellent for creating a fragrant hedge.<br /><br />• Healing plants: Include medicinal plants to symbolize the health aspects of your garden. Lavender, sage, basil, thyme and St.-John's-wort have been prized for centuries for their medicinal qualities. Fruits and vegetables can symbolize--and supply--nutrition. For example, the fruit of Sambucus, also called elderberry, is rich in antioxidants. An elderberry called Black Lace has intense purple-black, finely cut foliage. Its fruit can be used in jam or even wine.<br /><br />• Attracting wildlife: Add a birdbath, bird feeders or birdhouses and put in plants that attract butterflies. A new shrub, Lo & Behold Blue Chip buddleia, attracts flocks of butterflies as well as hummingbirds. It's the only miniature butterfly bush with loads of fragrant blue flowers that bloom continuously.<br /><br />• Color: Plants with bright colors can lift the spirits. To show support for overcoming breast cancer, consider pink flowers. A newly available choice, Invincibelle Spirit Hydrangea, is the very first pink-flowered "Annabelle" hydrangea. You can see more than 100 blooms on a single plant. Its dark-pink buds open to hot-pink flowers, which mature to a soft pink. In addition, for every Invincibelle Spirit sold, Proven Winners ColorChoice will donate a dollar to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. <br /><br />These plants are at better garden centers. To find the one closest to you, see www.provenwinners.com/findaretailer.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-68740363077990112382010-03-17T23:30:00.003-04:002010-03-17T23:33:54.660-04:00Starting Seeds the right wayWhat could be better than the special satisfaction that comes from harvesting the bounty of a particular plant that was once only a tiny speck of a seed in the palm of your hand? For some, it is knowing that you can buy a packet of seeds which will grow 50 plants for about the same price it would cost to buy one plant. For others, that you can choose exactly the varieties you want for an earlier harvest, a better flavor or a more beautiful color. Or maybe you want to know that you have the healthiest, most vigorous seedlings available to take full advantage of our ever changing climate. Whatever your reason the info below will provide you with some useful, straightforward tips that will help you successfully navigate the seed starting process. <br /><br />What you’ll need (EQUIPMENT/TOOLS)<br /><br />SOIL THERMOMETER: Why? So you know the temperature of your soil! Most seeds don't like cold wet soil and will refuse to germinate, even rot! Also since I use a heating mat to give my seeds a head start, I can make sure that the soil isn't getting too hot. The first year I used a plant heating mat, I couldn't understand why none of the seeds were germinating. I check the soil temp and found out that the soil was nearly one hundred degrees! So, I use some wood slats and raised the seed flats off the mats by an inch or two and within a few days, seedlings started to emerge! I learned that since I start my seed indoors and the average room temperature is around seventy, that the mats got too hot when in direct contact with the flats! So by raising them, I got the temp closer to 70-75degrees and the seeds germinated!<br />For general seed germination, the soil temp should be in the 60-75 degree range. If your soil temp is staying too warm, then the heat needs to be turned down or preferable off in the room where the seed flats are at. Seedlings like a night time temp of 50-60 degrees so the plant can harden off gradually. I had my heat mats plugged into my timer so at night when the lights and fan turned off, so did the heat mats. Once the seeds have germinated, turn off the heat mats permanently. They don't need them and you want your seedlings to grow up stout and ready to go outside in the real world! For outdoor temperatures here is a general rule: Generally speaking, the soil temp stays more consistent that the air temperature and is usually an average of ten degrees cooler in the summer and retains about the same degrees in heat over air in the winter. So, if your daytime spring day temperature is seventy, you can bet your soil temperature is not over sixty. Stick that soil thermometer all the way down in your garden soil to get a true reading before planting seeds outside. Conversely, if your winter daytime temperature is 35, then your soil temperature is probably hovering around 45-50! Good news when you are judging when to pull late fall crops. <br />HOUSEHOLD FAN: Another reason for seed failure is a fungus called "damping off". The fungus attacks the tender stems at the soil level and before you know it, your precious seedlings have fallen over and are dying. Nothing you can do at that point. So, the trick here is prevention! This is where the household fan comes in. By maintaining a steady low flow of air circulating in your seedling room, you help keep the top layer of soil dry enough that the fungus doesn't grow. I have had no seedling damping off since I tried this years’ ago and continue faithfully to use the fan every spring. I have my fan hooked up to my timer so than when the lights come on, the fan comes on too! Works great! <br />TIMER: Onto the timer, this is where it gets tricky. Some plants are light sensitive such as marigolds while others could care less. So for simplicity sake, let's stick with tomatoes. I start my seedlings in late February. I will start out my daylight hours with the timer set to eight hours on and sixteen hours off. Then as the plants grow, I gradually extend the daylight hours until I hit twelve and twelve. This seems to work great, especially for tomatoes. By the time they are ready for moving into my outdoor cold frame in April, they are nice and stout, deep green and look fabulous. Also by using a timer, I don't have to worry if we are out of town a few days. The plants will never miss me! <br />WATERING CAN: Well, this is a no brainer. I use a gallon milk jug often times so I can mix my fertilizer correctly, then pour that mixture into a watering can for individual pot watering. OK, here is the Number One Cause of seed failure!: Overwatering! Don't drown your seedlings. The soil should never be more than slightly damp. If the soil feels damp, don't water! <br />For fertilizing, I use a liquid fertilizer that is balanced and has all the nutrients that the plant needs. Of course, general products such as Miracle Grow are just fine too, but remember to dilute the solution to half the recommended concentration. I feel that the plants get a sustainable and constant feeding this way. You wouldn't want to go for three days on just water, then get a mega meal to make up! Plants are constantly growing and need nutrients just like children! <br />PLANT TAGS AND PERMANENT MARKER: A must have before you even start planting. Believe me, you won't be able to remember what every tray has in it. Then when you are ready to transplant, you already have the tag and it goes right in with the plant in it's new pot! Nothing more frustrating than "mystery plants"! .<br />Containers: <br />Try all kinds to see what works for you. Make sure they are clean and have good drainage. If you are using a fiber or peat pot, soak it well before adding soil. Dry fiber pots draw moisture away from the soil.<br /><br /><br />Container choices.<br />Convenience, cost, and reusability will determine which containers you use. If you won't be around to water daily or don't plan to transplant seedlings into another container before planting them out, use 2- to 4-inch-diameter containers or flats with individual cells.<br /><br />Plastic flats with no dividers are an old favorite. They're readily available from garden supply stores and mail-order catalogs, and free when you buy seedlings at nurseries.<br /><br />Plastic cell-packs and 2- to 4-inch plastic pots, recycled from nursery purchases, are easy to obtain and use.<br /><br />Peat pots are inexpensive but not reusable. But because you plant out seedlings pot and all, such pots minimize disturbance to roots. Keep them moist (so roots can penetrate them easily).<br /><br />Plastic foam flats with tapered individual cells are sold by nurseries and through seed catalogs. They come in several cell sizes; some have capillary matting that draws water from a reservoir, making seedling care much easier.<br /><br />In addition to the containers listed above, you can use household items--plastic cups, yogurt containers, cut-down milk cartons, foil baking pans. Be sure to punch several drainage holes in any container that lacks them, since seedlings will die if water collects around their roots. If you're reusing old pots, scrub them out and soak them for 30 minutes in a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part household bleach to destroy any disease organisms.<br />There are five basic requirements for successful seed starting: good seeds, good light, good starting medium, proper watering and, finally, a sense of adventure. Most annual flowers and vegetables should be sown 4 to 8 weeks Let’s take a look at these important points one at a time. <br /><br />GOOD SEEDS <br />No matter how careful you are with all the other aspects of seed starting you will not be satisfied with the results unless you have heeded the call for good seeds. None of the other factors can compensate for seeds that are not strong and vigorous. Most seed companies provide high quality, healthy seeds because their livelihood depends on customers purchasing again next year. (See the IFCGA web page for an extensive list of seed sources.) Even the 10 cent packets are generally good seeds although sometimes the quality is inconsistent. If you have any concerns about the quality of seeds you have purchased or saved it is easy to do a simple germination test: <br />Take ten seeds and place them on a dampened paper towel. <br />Roll up the paper towel with the seeds inside and place it inside a plastic bag . <br />Partially close the plastic bag - do not seal. <br />Place in a warm place (top of a refrigerator) and check every couple of days. Add moisture to keep towel damp if necessary. <br />After ten days or so count how many seeds have germinated, multiply by ten and you have the germination rate. For rates under 70% adjust the number of seeds you sow accordingly. <br /><br />GOOD LIGHT <br />Good lighting is essential to ensure sturdy, strong seedlings ready to take on the rigors of the Idaho climate. Even a bright, sunny window does not provide sufficient light to avoid leggy, weak-stemmed seedlings. The system I have used with excellent results for the last several years is simple and inexpensive: a standard shoplight with one warm white and one cool white florescent bulbs suspended so that the lights are never more than 3 inches from the plants. You can hang the lights from a ceiling or, as I do, from the shelves of a three-tiered plant stand that will hold 12 flats of plants. For optimal growth most plants require 16-18 hours of light (once germinated) with a few hours of rest.( A timer is handy for this purpose.) Special full spectrum bulbs are available but cost about 10 times more than florescent bulbs and in my experience do not improve the results enough to justify the extra cost. As the seedlings grow be sure to repot them in larger pots as they start crowding one another. This not only provides more root space but spreads them out so that the leaves have more surface area exposed to the light. A final hint: replace your florescent bulbs each year with new ones so that the light is as intense as possible. <br />Some seeds require light to germinate while others prefer total darkness. Your seed packet should tell you what your seed's requirements are. Once germinated, all seedlings need light to develop into strong, healthy plants. Supplement the natural light with florescent bulbs if necessary.<br /><br /> <br />GOOD PLANTING MEDIUM <br />This is an easy one - don’t use soil! Do use any good, light, soiless planting mix, many types of which are readily available at garden centers. A soiless planting medium is preferred for several reasons; it is light and open to encourage those tiny sprouts to push up to the surface, it can hold generous amounts of water without becoming water-logged, and because it is sterilized it will not harbor the harmful bacteria which cause damping off. If you are going to re-use planting containers from last year be sure to disinfect them in a 9/1 water to bleach solution. Nothing beats a good commercial medium because it is sterile and free of unwanted weed seeds. If you want to make your own, here are a couple of good recipes:<br /><br />Cornell Mix:<br />4 quarts of shredded peat moss or sphagnum, 2 teaspoons ground limestone, 4 tablespoons 5-10-10 fertilizer.<br /><br />Simple Mix:<br />1 part loam, 1 part clean sand or perlite, 1 part leaf mold or moist peat.<br /><br /> <br />PROPER WATERING <br />This aspect of starting seeds is probably the most troublesome. It requires some practice (and not a few failures) to get the hang of what we gardeners mean when we say ‘Well, keep them wet enough but not too wet’. The best explanation I can offer is that the soil should be consistently slightly moist but not at all soggy. It is OK for the surface to be a bit dry but if the leaves are beginning to droop or a shiny leaf is starting to look dull it is a sign that the roots do not have adequate moisture down deep. While it is probably better to err on the side of too little water rather than too much either extreme will stress the plants and produce a weaker seedling. In my experience the best method for watering seedlings is bottom watering. It avoids wetting the leaves and assures even and thorough watering of the planting medium, as well as teaching the roots to travel downward for moisture and nutrients. Just add 2-4” of water/nutrient mix to the container’s tray and set your pots into the water. The water will slowly filter upwards through the planting medium until the surface is wet. As soon as you begin to see the surface darkening lift the pots from the water, drain for a moment or two and return them to their place under the lights. When the seeds are newly planted and covered with plastic you will need to water much less frequently than when the plants have grown to 5 or 6” and have more leaf surface area transpiring. Watch carefully during your first seed-starting season and you will soon get the hang of it. <br />Use a fine sprayer to water newly planted seeds and tiny seedlings. If you can, <br /><br />PLANTING <br />Getting the seeds in the planting mix is one of the most enjoyable parts of the process. You will need: <br />Planting containers - I use re-useable, deep, 6-cell planters but you can use almost any container that has good drainage. All nurseries have convenient trays, cell planters and plastic domes. <br />Plant markers for identifying the seeds planted ( I use plastic milk cartons cut into strips) <br />A notebook for taking notes on when, how and what you’ve done (you’ll love yourself next year!) <br />Good seeds! <br /><br />Fill the containers with planting mix and pack it down gently. Check seed packets for proper planting depth*, plant several seeds in each container, and cover with planting mix according to the directions. (Later, after the seedlings have their first set of true leaves, you will either transplant the extras or clip them out with a pair of small scissors.) Gently water each individual container thoroughly, label each container and then cover with a clear plastic bag or a plastic dome. Put into a warm place like the top of your refrigerator. Some seeds will germinate in 3-4 days so keep a close eye on them because as soon as the seedlings are up they need to be moved immediately under lights. Other seeds can take up to three weeks to germinate so read your packets. Remember to check on the moisture level periodically. <br />Some seeds require light to germinate so read the packets carefully - sprinkle these on the surface and water very gently. <br /><br />Fill pots or flats to within 1/4 inch of the top with your potting mixture and level the surface. It's a good idea to water the soil and allow it to drain thoroughly before sowing the seeds. Make a hole for each seed with your finger or a pencil. Keep in mind that most seeds need to be planted four times as deep as the seed is wide. If your seeds are very fine, cover them with a fine layer of soil.<br /><br />Transplanting<br />When the seedlings have developed their second set of true leaves, it's time to transplant or thin them. If you don't need many plants, you can thin them in place: just pinch or snip off the excess seedlings, leaving the remaining ones spaced about 2 inches apart. Seedlings in individual pots or cells should be thinned to one plant per pot or cell. If you want to save most of the plants that have germinated, you'll need to transplant them to larger containers for growth to planting-out size. It's best to use individual pots or cell-packs for this purpose, so that seedlings won't suffer much root disturbance when planted out in the garden.<br />To transplant seedlings, fill each new container with moist planting mix. Loosen the soil around the seedlings (a kitchen fork or spoon is handy for this); then carefully lift them out, one at a time. Or lift a clump of seedlings and gently separate individual plants by carefully teasing apart the tangled mass of roots. Handle seedlings by their leaves to avoid damaging the tender stems. Poke a hole in the new container's planting mix, place the seedling in the hole, and firm soil around it. Water the transplant right away. Keep the containers out of direct sunlight for a few days to let the transplants recover from the move. <br /><br />Seedling Care<br />The care you give your seedlings in the weeks following germination is critical. Keep it moist, but not dripping. Small pots and flats dry out quickly, so check it often. If your seedlings are growing in a windowsill, turn often to encourage straight stems.<br />The first two leaves you will see on the plant are not true leaves but food storage cells called cotyledons. Once the first true leaves have developed, it's time to start fertilizing. Choose a good liquid organic fertilizer and use a weak solution once a week.<br /> <br />Special Seed Handling Techniques<br />Many seeds require special handling, so there are a few tricks you should know to ensure that your seeds will sprout. The seed packet should list any special requirements.<br /><br />Scarification - Seeds with especially hard outer shells often benefit from this abuse. Rub the outer shell of the seed with sandpaper or a file. It takes a little practice to make a cut that's deep enough to help, but not deep enough to damage the plant. <br />• Lupine <br />• Mallow <br />• Morning Glory <br />• Sweet Pea <br />• Blue Indigo, Wild Indigo <br /><br />Soaking - Seeds that have a hard outer coat will germinate faster if they are soaked in water overnight. <br />• Asparagus <br />• Lilyturf <br />• Lupine <br />• Mallow <br />• Morning Glory <br />• Okra <br />• Perennial Pea <br />• Parsley <br />• Thrift <br /><br />Stratification - This process helps recreate the natural seasons so that the seed knows it's time to germinate. For cold stratification, place the seeds in moist peat moss or vermiculite in the refrigerator. For warm stratification, place the container in a warm spot. After the first month or so, examine the seeds regularly for signs of germination. As soon as the small white primary root appears, plant the seed in soil. <br />• Angelica <br />• Christmas Rose <br />• Daylily <br />• Gas Plant <br />• Globeflower <br />• Lavender <br />• Ornamental Cabbage <br />• Phlox <br />• Primrose <br />• Tahoka Daisy <br />• Viola, Violet, Pansy <br />• Wake Robin <br /><br /><br /><br />OTHER TIPS <br />FEEDING SEEDLINGS <br />Once your seedlings have their first set of true leaves you can begin feeding them at every other watering. Any good plant food with a balanced N-P-K will do but be sure to use it at ¼ strength for the first few weeks and ½ strength later. <br />HARDENING OFF <br />It will make you crazy if you successfully get your plants to the point at which they are ready to go outside and then you damage or kill them by skipping this step so even though you are really anxious to get them out of your living room and into the dirt please take the time to follow this step. The process of hardening off readies the plant to withstand the rigors of the outdoors and can be accomplished in about 4 - 10 days, dependent on the weather. Start out by taking the plants outside on a calm day for about an hour. Bring them back under the lights. Repeat the process each day doubling the time until they are out all day. Now they are ready to go into the soil. If the weather gets particularly cold or windy you may want to abort the process and begin again when the weather improves. This is definitely worth doing! <br />A cold frame is useful for hardening off seedlings. Over the next week or so, gradually increase exposure until the plants are in full sun all day (shade lovers are an exception; they shouldn't be exposed to day-long sun).<br /><br /><br />IT’S AN ADVENTURE <br />This is the final and maybe most important of the five basic requirements I mentioned at the start. Growing your own plants gives you the opportunity to learn about growth and nurturing, about patience and perseverance. It will ignite your imagination and your sense of the possible if you let it. Be willing to try what you haven’t, accept the failures you will undoubtedly experience and realize that, as with most of life, if you stick with it, learn from your mistakes and keep trying you will keep growing and enjoying your own bountiful harvest.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-45595658732606978992010-01-27T20:30:00.002-05:002010-01-27T20:35:54.720-05:00The Healing GardenIn the best of times flowers help us celebrate the joyous occasions in our lives—the birth of a child, a wedding, career or personal success. In more difficult times plants give us hope and inspiration to meet the challenges of life.<br /><br />The role of the plants and gardens in healing is ancient. As early as 3000 B.C. the Chinese were using medicinal herbs. The Greeks built a temple for Aesclepius, their god of healing, set among mineral springs, bathing pools, and healing gardens. Green was a sacred color in ancient Egypt and represented the hope of spring that brought new vegetation and life.<br /><br />In colonial America, the Quakers felt a deep attachment to nature and believed gardens were a place of creativity for the mind and body. Growing plants was a way to relax and restore the soul. One of the first programs to use plants in a therapeutic setting was established in 1879 at Philadelphia’s Friends Hospital after a physician noticed that psychiatric patients working in the hospital’s fields and flower gardens were calmer and that the gardens had a “curative” effect on them.<br /><br />In more recent times, advances in technology and new drugs have been the focus of treatment at medical institutions. However, within the past few decades, the medical community around the world is rediscovering the healing power of gardens. Many hospitals and health care facilities are incorporating green spaces, flowerbeds and views of gardens into their surroundings and horticultural therapy programs are often an important part of a patient’s course of treatment.<br /><br />Healing gardens can be found in a variety of institutions including substance abuse treatment centers, outpatient clinics, long-term care facilities, hospices and retirement homes, as well as in botanic gardens and arboreta around the world. In Cleveland, Ohio the Men’s Garden Club worked with homeless women in temporary housing to create The Serenity Garden, a therapeutic green space that replaced the bleak asphalt paving that had filled the back yard of the facility. The Center for Victims of Torture in Minneapolis, Minnesota developed their Garden of Healing to aid in the healing process of people who have suffered psychological and physical abuse. Oregon’s Portland Memory Garden provides a safe and enjoyable setting that addresses the restorative power of gardens for patients with Alzheimer’s.<br /><br />Doctors at the Jupiter Medical Center in Florida found that cardiology patients in rehab who had a view of that facility’s Jacqueline Fiske Healing Garden from their room took less pain medication and had shorter hospital stays than those patients who could not see the garden.<br /><br />For an individual recovering from a serious illness such as cancer or stroke, gardens can be an important part of healing by providing hope and inspiration. Hope in Bloom is a non-profit organization in Massachusetts that installs gardens at no cost at the homes of women (and men) undergoing treatment for breast cancer. Each garden is developed specifically to the home and lifestyle of each recipient in order to give them a tranquil place to escape from the world of doctors, hospitals and sickness.<br /><br />Clare Cooper Marcus, Professor Emerita in the College of Environmental Design at the University of California at Berkeley, found her garden had a strong impact on her coping and healing during several bouts with cancer. A gardener since childhood, she has always found the garden to be a comforting retreat—a place where her anxieties dissipate into the ground.<br /><br />Throughout her illness and treatment Cooper Marcus wrote in a journal and discovered that working in the garden had symbolic parallels to her illness. When Cooper Marcus decided to clear a corner of her garden cluttered and overgrown with brambles, she realized it was similar to the chemo drugs eliminating the cancer cells from her body and making her healthy again. Cooper Marcus now focuses on the therapeutic aspects of gardens and their design through her consulting business, Healing Landscapes.<br /><br />Whether tending to a houseplant, growing some flowers or turning an outdoor garden into a relaxing retreat, plants have the power to heal our body and our soul. Research has shown that working in the garden can benefit everyone. The physical efforts of gardening—digging, planting, bending and walking—are great forms of exercise to keep the body healthy. Strenuous yard work such as digging or weeding not only burns calories, it is similar to weight training in building bones and preventing osteoporosis. Gardens and gardening activity can also improve mental outlook and our emotional mood by reducing stress, anxiety and depression. Studies have found that gardening can lower blood pressure and cholesterol, which reduces the risk of heart disease. Researchers at the Cleveland Botanical Garden found that the blood pressure of many visitors dropped the longer they stayed in the gardens.<br /><br />A healing garden can take many forms but always provides interaction with nature. Visually plants provide inspirational colors or peaceful tones. We can hear the relaxing sound of water or the stimulating activity of visiting wildlife. The rich aroma of fresh earth and the delightful scent of perfumed herbs fill the air we breathe, while the fresh flavor of a crispy pea pod or sweet berry tempts our taste buds. We can touch the velvety smoothness of a flower petal or be touched by the movement of leaves in the wind.<br /><br />Begin to create your own garden of healing today simply by planting a container filled with colorful flowers, a nutritious vegetable, or an herb such as lavender, sage, basil or thyme. In addition to being attractive and aromatic, these and many other herbs have been used medicinally for centuries. Watching and nurturing any plant as it grows provides power and energy to enhance your well-being.<br /><br />In an outdoor setting, incorporating a few simple design elements turns any garden into a place of healing and inspiration.<br /><br />•Grow plants that you find pleasing. Are you energized by bright colors? Then include annuals such as zinnias, petunias, sunflowers or cosmos. If you enjoy cooking, incorporate herbs, vegetables and edible flowers into your garden. Plants such as sage or lavender can be harvested and used for aromatherapy.<br /><br />•Include a place to sit and observe the beauty of nature or a path for walking through the garden. Enclose it with shrubs or fencing to create a secluded retreat.<br /><br />•Add a focal point for meditation and reflection such as a piece of sculpture, a special plant, interesting rocks, wind chimes or a water fountain.<br /><br />•Encourage butterflies, birds, insects and other wildlife to the garden for their healing energy. Birdfeeders and birdhouses quickly and easily begin attracting garden visitors. Choose plants that supply nectar and food including coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea), butterfly flower (Aesclepias tuberosa) salvias (Salvia spp.), dill, parsley and sunflowers.<br /><br />The design and development of a healing garden, just like the process of healing and recovery, takes place over time. It is that journey and the time spent with nature that heals our body and soul.<br /><br />For additional resources about therapeutic gardens, visit the Therapeutic Landscapes Database (www.healinglandscapes.org), which lists healing gardens throughout the United States and Canada, as well as links to other informational websites and organizations. <br /><br />Thanks to The National Garden Bureau for this article. These days we all need some healing in our gardens!<br /><br />DaveThe Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-55646107528045085352010-01-16T16:27:00.001-05:002010-01-16T16:33:00.403-05:00Houseplant Care in WinterFor beginners, let's begin by saying that a home is not perfect growing conditions for most plants. The term house plant is actually a false term – there are no plants that I know of that naturally are found growing in a home. Most are grown in tropical locations where sun light, humidity and nutrients are high and the plants thrive. When they are grown for sale to you, the homeowner, they are grown in the same conditions, in a greenhouse – plenty of sunlight, humidity and nutrients. Now unfortunately most homes are not ideal growing conditions, especially at this time of year. As we all know, the amount of light and the duration is dramatically low, the humidity in our homes is low from the heating equipment which keeps us warm, and sometimes we forget that the soil that our plants grow in needs to be changed about once a year to keep it fresh and free from mineral deposits from watering. In all truth, our homes are closer to being the Gobi Desert than a tropical paradise. There are ways to overcome these obstacles to keep those plants looking a fresh and full as the day you purchased them.<br /><br />If you add supplemental lighting for your plants and put the lights on a timer to be on for 11 to 13 hours, you will notice a dramatic improvement. Supplemental lighting does not need to be expensive. One of the most inexpensive ways of adding light is to head to your local home center and purchase a 4 foot fluorescent fixture (which is around $10). DO not purchase the fancy Grow Lights at $7 + per bulb. Just purchase one cool white and one warm light bulb. By using both of the bulbs, you will be adding close to the full spectrum of light at about ½ the price, and from my own experience, does just as good a job. If the plants are in a living space and you do not want to hang 4 foot fluorescent fixtures in your living room, just change the bulbs in your current light fixtures to full spectrum bulbs, and again try to leave them on for 11 to 13 hours per day. <br /><br />There are a couple ways to increase the humidity. Adding a humidifier to your living space will not only improve the plants health, but also your own. In our case we end up drying like a prune in the winter, as well as coughing because of the dryness. Adding humidity will keep our skin soft and our lungs lubricated. For plants, humidity is an additional way for them to uptake moisture. Leaves not only produce chlorophyll, but on the bottom sides have cells which open and close to exchange moisture, CO2 and oxygen. The simplest way of adding humidity to the area directly around your plant is to purchase a saucer or tray for underneath the pot. Fill the saucer with gravel and fill with water, then place the pot on top of the gravel. Make sure that they pot is not sitting in the water, but instead on the gravel. You do not want the plant to have wet feet, possibly creating root rot or fungus.<br /><br />For nutrients, since the plant is not actively growing during the winter, using a houseplant fertilizer that is balanced at ½ the suggested rate will be fine. I like using Schulz’s house plant food simply because it is balanced and the container is smaller than most, saving on space. Watering is another concern during the winter. Again since the plant is not actively growing, most waterings will last longer than in the spring, summer or fall. Try to stay away from the “weekly” watering schedule and use your finger to be the judge. If the soil feels moist, don’t water - dry, water. It is that simple. <br /><br />A great way to deal with several of these problems is to put the plant in the shower with tepid water. This will also take care of cleaning the leaves of the dust that can accumulate during the winter. Just let the plant sit in the tub for one hour to fully drain, then move on to the next. <br /><br />In general, these quick tips will keep your houseplant healthy and lush through the winter.The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-35467472324507415902009-12-08T10:57:00.001-05:002009-12-08T10:57:56.441-05:00How to select the perfect Christmas TreeBy The Gardening Guru<br />www.thegardeningguru.com<br />(feel free to print this out and pass on to your friends)<br />As the holidays approach, I am always asked “How do I pick the perfect Christmas tree?”. Since I have sold Christmas trees for over 15 years, I am the best person to ask. Let’s begin with some of the easy stuff to get past before we get into the different types of trees. <br />1). As every newscaster will tell you the Friday after Thanksgiving, check the tree for freshness. Run your hands lightly gripping the branch from the inside of the tree to the outside. You will have needles dropping, but there should not be a handful. You have to keep in mind that most Christmas trees, unless purchased at a cut-your-own farm, will have been cut in the beginning to middle of November. They are then kept in cold storage until delivery time to the garden center or corner lot. So when someone tells you that they were cut a week ago, don’t believe them unless it is the Friday after Thanksgiving. Also “bounce” the tree on the ground and see how many needles fall. There will be some, because even evergreens lose their older needles which are located towards the inside of the tree. A good example of this is the members of the pine family, such as white and scotch pine. A tree lot will spend a good deal of time bouncing these trees to remove the dead needles from the inside of the tree to help sell it quicker. No one likes a tree that is full of dead needles! Once you have determined that the tree is fresh, you can move onto the next step. <br />2). Tree types - Now you may be asking why we started with freshness instead of the type of tree. It is more important to get a fresh tree than a particular tree. Also, some trees do have the tendency to dry out quicker than others. Below is a listing of trees that are grown for Christmas trees, including pines, spruces and firs, including their best qualities and their drawbacks. <br />a). The Pines - Pines are the Christmas tree grower’s best plant; they grow rapidly, are ready for sale in a short period of time, and can grow in a wide range of climates and soil types. On the other hand, they do need a heavy annual shearing for them to attain that”Christmas Tree” look. With all of this shearing, the stem can be quite thick compared to the size of the tree, so check your tree stand for diameter size before purchasing. 1). Austrian Pine (Pinus nigra) - These trees make good “living” trees, or trees that come with a root ball. They can withstand the conditions inside and will do quite nicely outside in your landscape. Unlike most pines, the Austrian pine keeps its lower branches even after reaching a large size. 2). Jack Pine (Pinus banksiana) - This pine has very short needles (1”), but tends to have a yellow tinge to the needles for the winter, so the tree only enjoys a limited popularity. 3). Scotch Pine (Pinus sylvestris) - These trees were originally imported from Europe for fast reforestation of cut-over areas. It proved to be a disappointment because it tended to be short-lived and it grew crooked. Resourceful growers began shearing it as a Christmas tree, especially since it can grow in milder climates where spruces and firs will not. There is a wide variety of Scotch pines (French, Spanish and Greek) and they vary greatly. Most Scotch pines tend to yellow for the winter, and to compensate the growers will spray a colorant on these trees to make them look better, with limited success. Scotch pines also suffer from crooked stems, so always look at the bottom of the tree as well as the top on this type. With it being sheared, this tree is good for a “lights only” display as well as most pines. There are no real spaces for ornaments. 4). White pine (Pinus strobus) - This tree is very important to the lumber industry as well as the Christmas tree industry. It is mostly grown in the mid-Atlantic states, and buyers admire it for the soft green color and woodsy fragrance. Again it is a lights only tree. <br />b). The Firs - Firs are the most popular type of tree grown for Christmas. They have an attractive, deep green color and conical shape and have needles that are flatter and softer in texture. In general, they are the longest lasting tree in terms of needle retention and have the most fragrance, a citrus-orange scent. 1). Balsam fir (Abies balsamea) - This tree is grown in the colder climate where winters are cold and summers are cool. To many on the east coast, a balsam fir is the only Christmas tree. It is naturally cone shaped, needles that are rich green on top and silvery white underneath. Most only need three to four shearings before sale and are relatively quick growing. Of the firs, this is the mid-priced model. 2). Douglas fir (Psuedotsuga Menziessii) - It is not a true fir, but does resemble the fir family, especially with its citrus fragrance. In the Northwest, British Columbia and Rocky Mountains, this is the tree of choice. Douglas firs have a blue-green color, excellent needle retention, but be wary of split trunks. I have seen hundreds of Douglas firs that have a split trunk 1 foot from the bottom, which will only complicate the cutting for the stand. 3). Frasier fir (Abies fraseri) - They still don’t know whether this is a different species from the balsam fir of just a climatic variation. The needles are short and hug the stem and its growth habit is more dense than balsam. This is my personal favorite as well as the tree I have gotten for the past 15 years. 4) Noble fir (Abies procera) - This attractive tree only grows in the Northwest. This fir is the best with needle retention, but the problem arises that it is a slow grower, so not only will you pay more for this tree, but the trunk will be quite large. <br />c). The Spruces - Spruces have stiff square needles, rough bark, strong branches which make it perfect for heavy ornaments. On the other hand, it is often too prickly for children to decorate and can drop needles quite quickly. Spruces need to be watered frequently, and if you forget, the tree needs to have a new fresh cut on the trunk so it will be able to absorb water again. Definitely a heavy drinker of water, so get a large capacity tree stand. 1). Blue Spruce (Picea pungens) - Known for its landscape use as well as a Christmas tree, blue spruce are definitely and eye catching tree. They do not tolerate indoor conditions, so don’t bring it in until it is almost Christmas. 2). White Spruce (Picea glauca) - A nice tree for its green color, but again a heavy needle dropper when watering is not kept up. <br />There are many new varieties being grown today, and it is really up to your own personal choice. After selecting your tree, only give the tree a fresh cut just before you are going to bring it inside. Make sure you have a large enough stand for the tree. Sometimes it is better to have one to big than too small, for the larger one will hold more water and cut down your watering times. I have also heard to use aspirin, tree fresh and other assorted chemicals to help preserve the tree. The simple, most effective way to keep your tree fresh is to make sure to never let it run out of water...plain and simple. Good luck and have a safe and happy holiday season!The Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3286371677988250912.post-20299716533302733642009-07-30T20:41:00.002-04:002009-07-30T20:56:06.990-04:00ChangeTo all of my friends in the blogger world:<br /><br />This may come as a shock to all of you, but I've recently decided to step down as Executive Director of The Botanical Gardens in Buffalo. The reason is quite simple - I have a hunger, or should I say need, to be back in the field of horticulture and not behind a desk pushing papers. This became quite clear to me when I was in Buffalo. My true love is and has always been working with plants and helping you, gardeners from across the world, through my website, blogging, lecturing and articles in horticultural magazines. I will be concentrating more on improving my website, having a more up to date blog, rededicating myself to my internet podcast, and finally, writing the horticultural how-to manual that I think every gardener needs to have on their shelf or in their shed.<br /><br />So be patient as I finish relocating back to New Jersey, the best is yet to come! And as always, feel free to contact me with any questions you may have - I am here to help you become a better gardener. That is why I am here!<br /><br />DaveThe Gardening Guru's Bloghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11188961504427324374noreply@blogger.com0